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Dry Sump Setup Pics

widebody32

By widebody32,
in Forced Induction Performance

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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
wouldnt happen to have a spare inlet manifold from the gt500 engine?

what will you do for me dave if I quickly steal that inlet next time i'm near one? I don't think nismo will give me one for love or money. and i've given them both over the years and they've given me some nice shit, but GT engine might push it! hope you get some inspiration from the pics though. :P

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  • 1 year later...
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
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here you go you picture hungry animals. threw in a few nismo engine pics to make up for the slowness.

NISMO JGTC RB26 DRY SUMP SET-UP:

picture789hx1.jpg

picture792gy8.jpg

picture786gt8.jpg

picture791vj9.jpg

picture788qt7.jpg

picture790ir1.jpg

now that i see it's on a little dolly i should have wheeled it home :w00t:

I see they aren't to stressed about harmonics....full counter weight no doubt

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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

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yeah no real balancer as such, just a crank pulley to drive the water pump, alt and oil pump... everything would be finely balanced from end of crank to the clutch, not sure if the crank is full counter weight but it probably is.

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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
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Couple of things:

Have people who have done a full dry sump setup with a RB26 retaining the 4WD bothered take advantage of a shallower oil pan and lowered the engine? I can imagine it being a bit of a task especially to maintain the suspension and driveshaft geometry.

Is it necessary to run an oil restrictor to the head?

Hoping Brad (Risking) will comment on the first question.

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BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

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You can't lower the engine much as the pan is not shallower where it goes over the A frame cross member and power steering. The sump box hangs in the abyss....

Matt

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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

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You can't lower the engine much as the pan is not shallower where it goes over the A frame cross member and power steering. The sump box hangs in the abyss....

Matt

Good point; need to go under and measure.

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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

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yeah given driveshafts still going through the sump/diff in the front it's not easy to drop the engine much if at all. plus if the car is already really low (using just adjustable shocks) then driveshaft angles are already fairly bad.

if you went to a remove front diff (like a hilux etc) arrangement then you'd be in business. but such a hassle.

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Risking Grand Master

Risking

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It's not hard to do at all.

I make the shafts with uni joints instead of constant velocities and put a good splined slip joint at one end to allow for length changes.

Never had a binding issue with lowered engines.

It also helps if you run a higher offset rim and move the hub outward utilizing longer front drive shafts. I think I know what mike has in mind hence the above suggestion he will understand.

The sump bulge gets cut off and critical parts of the diff casing need to be webbed into the pan.

Something I've also been stuffing with is a brace incorporated into the outter diff/sump flange which braces the diff casting to the block. It has seemed to help with the whole snapping diffs of with launching issue I used to have.

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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's not hard to do at all.

I make the shafts with uni joints instead of constant velocities and put a good splined slip joint at one end to allow for length changes.

Never had a binding issue with lowered engines.

It also helps if you run a higher offset rim and move the hub outward utilizing longer front drive shafts. I think I know what mike has in mind hence the above suggestion he will understand.

The sump bulge gets cut off and critical parts of the diff casing need to be webbed into the pan.

Something I've also been stuffing with is a brace incorporated into the outter diff/sump flange which braces the diff casting to the block. It has seemed to help with the whole snapping diffs of with launching issue I used to have.

If you lower the engine you decrease your driveshaft angle which increases you track... so the proper way to do it would be to do what you suggested, you would not need longer driveshafts but the decreased angle might be an issue?

Why the move to uni's Brad? Sounds like a good idea RE: front diff casing.

Mr Baron: it is funny you mention removing the front diff. some mad fabricator in Sydney outlined plans for such a conversion :rolleyes:

Edited by bigmikespec
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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

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Not measuring the angle of the driveshaft it is hard to tell how much but it will vary. Want to get under and have a look this weekend. Also to check what Matt mentioned.

You are quite the argumentative type :)

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