Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've read eliminating negative boost ... ( googled it )

sounds fair that a mesh causes air to turn into small particles after its gone through the filter to enter the intake piping...

SO by removing the mesh is less restriction thus more air flowing in

wat do u guys think it will do to the car and how will the ecu react?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138144-afm-mesh-removed/
Share on other sites

What you said up the top is simply incorrect.

How can the mesh break the air up into little particles.

Think of the air as a fluid. Imagine if you put a mesh into a flowing stream of water. The water flows around the little pieces of the mesh. A mesh that thin hardly affects flow.

Any restriction caused by the mesh is so absolutely minute in the scheme of things.

Have you had a look inside the factory flexy pipe on the turbo? that would cause more turbulence than the afm mesh.

Hell, silicon pipe joiners would cause more turbulence on the edge ofo the metal pipe than the afm mesh.

Edited: further clarification + spelling mistakes.

Edited by MANWHORE

actually, the comoodore boys (inc myself) tested this. no gains to be had what so ever. it actually made some cars run wierd and stuff. our thoughts is the mesh is there to "straighten" the air to help the ecu read the airflow better.

I think it's safe to say that this is settled.

Summary:

1. Any reduction of restriction by removing mesh is negligible.

2. There is a good chance that issues will arise if the mesh is removed, and by refernce to point 1, it would be stupid to do so since there will be no gains anyway.

The biggest annoyance I found was the surge and overfueling pops that followed jumping off the throttle. It appears the mesh also helps prevent the air that is dumped out of the bov from passing the afm in reverse.

So.. you're saying this mighty magic mesh is a one way diode sorta thing eh? heheh... :P

So.. you're saying this mighty magic mesh is a one way diode sorta thing eh? heheh... :P

LMAO... yer I guess.

I'd better explain it a bit better though.

With the mesh removed; boosting hard with say half throttle then backing off enough but still on the throttle so the BOV lets go; at this point the car would have a single surge jerk type feel.

With the mesh there; it simply doesn't happen. I usually had the jerk/surge when driving up a hill and partially backing off (flagstaff hill for example).

Removing the mesh I noticed ZERO difference in fuel economy (consistent 470km's to ~50litres). Just that little annoyance when coming off the throttle.

I siliconed the mesh back in, felt much nicer. :O

remove the mesh on all of my hotwire afm.

never any problems, just reduced inlet restriction.

this includes all sorts of configs, both na, turbo, airbox, pod, rb30e, rb30et, rb30det, rb25det

with the mesh removed a little more air gets through unmeasured, so your open loop mixtures are a little leaner, and you get a little more timing when in both open and closed loop.

the mesh is a bigger restriction than a standard paper element filter.

All the mesh does is break up big incoming swirls and eddies into small swirls and eddies. If your airbox and upstream pipework is reasonably well designed the mesh does absolutely nothing. Removing it offers no advantage.

But on some cars, the air flowing into the flow meter may do funny things at certain particular speeds and loads. Removing the mesh may therefore sometimes cause some strange problems to arise that were not there with the mesh fitted. But not on all cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead   From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further.  From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too.   If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise.   I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.
    • Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
×
×
  • Create New...