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I spent a couple of hours on the dyno spead out over a couple of nights. I have been using the power FC software which has enabled me to tune sooo much more easily.

Mods.

87mm CP pistons

Tomei poncams 260 9.15

1mm oversize valves

HKS2530's with modified exhaust port to match chinese stainless manifolds

ARC twin entry intercooler

Blanked off BOV's (came with ARC cooler kit)

Mines AFM's

GTR+044 and surge tank

Nismo Fuel Pressure Reg

Apexi pod filters

Just Jap Alloy Radiator

Greddy cam gears

2x3" exhaust with 2x magic cats into a single 3.5

I also played with both cam timings and found 0 degrees to be optimal, I could get more power up top with 4+ degrees on the exhaust but at the expense of low down power.

comments welcome

post-2338-1160639114.jpg

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Comment: Pull that temp sensor out of the engine bay and do another run without corrections :P

Anyways, good power and a reasonable curve.

Spend a bit more time to eliminate that dip in the mid range and it'll be near on perfect!!

Was that around 20-22psi mark?

Haha, well spotted :D

Comment: Pull that temp sensor out of the engine bay and do another run without corrections :P

Anyways, good power and a reasonable curve.

Spend a bit more time to eliminate that dip in the mid range and it'll be near on perfect!!

Was that around 20-22psi mark?

Comment: Pull that temp sensor out of the engine bay and do another run without corrections :P

Anyways, good power and a reasonable curve.

Spend a bit more time to eliminate that dip in the mid range and it'll be near on perfect!!

Was that around 20-22psi mark?

yeah the temp was right up there, i had my pod shield out which definately didn't help much. the AFR was rich reflecting how hot the water temp was. I also have another graph with the IT at 39 degrees with 378kw. the dip was wheel spin

spot on 21.5psi

For the record I agree the temp shouldn't be that high, the sensor was sitting under the pods against the metal of the car so I'm guess was hotter than it should have been, I would have estimated the IT at the time to have been 54ish degrees from what the PFC was telling me. any who 278rwkw with 39degrees IT, I can post up if u would like.

Edited by BOOSTD
Nice result matt, looks like a nice safe tune too 11.2 AFRs

have to catch up with you to have a look, last time i saw her there wasnt much in the engine bay :P

Yep she's coming along, The AFR's were tuned earlier in the night for 11.4 but this was a pretty warm run. I'd done a few 24psi runs just previous but the plugs let me down.

Lots of power is nice. :P

Since you did it yourself would you mind posting up some raw data? I'm particularly interested in how much advance you are running across the rev range.

What is base timing set to?

What rpm are you seeing full boost? 1 bar?

Thanks.

Advance is 18degrees max a full load base is 20, i'll have to check where 1 bar is

I do have some pics somewhere, the manifolds are heat wrapped and also the front pipes which extends behind the front seats

I have no idea what 6 or 6f is, I didn't setup the computer....=) haven't learnt that much as yet, hard enough remembering to turn the ramp up off in time after a power run so I don't get lines all over my graph lol The just jap radiator cools very well, it did leak from the cap for a month or so but has sealed up now.

Edited by BOOSTD

Wheelspin? :rant:

Get it strapped better and do a run :(

That will sort the dip out, did you get any runs without spin?

Although the AFR's are rich so if it was fully loaded up it probably wouldnt be a large issue.

21.5psi :) smack on what it should be for the 360-380 marker

Just hang the sensor on the dyno rack, good enough :rant:

while im aware most would have seen this, those that havent need to see it!

The mines ultimate r34, what 2530's can really do.

It looks like they have this thing pulling hard from not much over 4grand, almost unbelievably quick to ~9grand redline, what a crazy powerband!!

does anyone know how much peak power the mines car makes?

Am i remembering correctly that this car is in Australia now?

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