Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Can anyone recomend some where to get touch up paint for a Nissan Stagea NM35 with paint code "KYO"?

Tried Repco and they had no idea.

Cheers

Andy

Have the same question... for any jap imported car. People at Aussie car stores have no idea... some idiots never even heard of nissan skyline before.

I doubt panel beater can make up a can of touch-up paint.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Have the same question... for any jap imported car. People at Aussie car stores have no idea... some idiots never even heard of nissan skyline before.

I doubt panel beater can make up a can of touch-up paint.

so when a panel shop/bodyworks repair a car what do they do for paint? 99.9% of panel shops have a paint system to which they can mix any colour they have a code/formulation for, and if they wont do it for the general public, which most wont, they will direct u to the local distributor which they buy there paints from, which will be able to mix and sell ur colour at request.

hey guys ive got a maroon 33 gtr any idea of that code???

take note of a few posts up where a fella has posted the picture of his plates and the next person has replied to the post with the code, refer with that code(believe it was 732?) back to the picture to see where it came from and voila, thats where ur code will be, its in the same place on 99% of all imported nissans.

I have a r33 1995, its colour is Polar White - QM1 but on page 1, I read that QM1 is not for skylines :|

yes qm1 is an r33 colour for skylines, it also exist on pulsars, x-trails and several other nissans, you can always believe write ups like that on the net, the code on the vehicle is the only one to believe.

what would the paint code be for the greyish colour which is painted on the bottom of R32 GTR front bar lips?

dont believe they ever kept a record of the grey but i may be wrong, best way to find out is to take ur vehicle into a car paint shop and they may check the code in there system, depending on there system it may come up with a bumper colour(dupont is a ripper for it).

Anyone know who can get the original Nissan paints from Japan, chasing MNPII for R34 GTR as we need it for a customer. If so, please pm me.

impossible, ud have to call nissan in japan, and if they spoke english they'd tell u what im about to tell u, grab/find the paintcode for the colour u want, go into a local car paint shop and quote that code and they will be able to mix the colour for u.

its 99% impossible to use the exact same brand of paint that nissan use on there vehicles, thats if they are like most other manifacturers, which put out tenders to paint companys i.e dupont, standox, glasurit, spies hecker, etc etc, saying they want 2000 litres of kh2 silver(or whatever it may be) the paint companies will come back with quotes, most of the time lowest quote wins, say it may be dupont, then the manifacturer will go and use the 2000 litres then bang, they need more paint, so they will do the same tenders, although this time another company might come up with a better price on the same colour, so the next 2000 litres may be done by spies hecker. this also be the reason for colour variations in cars, u and ur mate might have the same car with the same code, but swap doors of the cars and they might stand out like a sore thumb, because the paint was made by different paint companies, and say the 2nd company may not have made it as good as the first.

Anyone found paint codes for the RB26 rockers covers

codes for rocker covers and wheels and other removeable parts were never kept, take it to ur local paint shop and give them some time and they should be able to match something up for u.

hope this answers everyones questions about paints etc. as i work in one of these 'car paint shops' i get snowed upon with similar questions on a daily basis.

  • 3 weeks later...
Hey guys ;)

98 Silver

hi, thought of askin help frm u abt my v35 color.

i had an accident last week n need a paint job on my rear bumper. mine is 04 v35 skyline n my dealer said its pearl white. is it QT1 or QX1?

n is it alrite if i tel da smash repair guys dat code n it b alrite?

thx alot.

vic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...