Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yer im looking at a ross balancer from UAS at the moment for 510 delivered will match my greddy pulleys.. basicaly this is wat we think has happened

locating pin for balancer has sheered in half and balancer has spun on the crank and we cant get the balancer off (we pritty sure thats wat happened anyway) :(

but yer.. yet to get balancer once itsoff will post pics.. and start looking for a replacement hopefully nothign to major.. hope i dont have to buy a new crank

locating pin...are you refering to the half moon keyway? Thats hard to imagine. The keyway to shear in half and let the damper spin.

Can also get an ATI one for about $800-$900. They are rated pretty good from just about everyone. I believe we got ours from Wholesale Performance at Slacks Creek.

Edited by r33_racer

this was the only way we could get the balancer off.. was tryin to find the oil leak.. and well yer balancer wouldnt come off

we are not entirely sure how the balancer was on there as the key isnt broken.. however there appears to be a build up of something on the crank, luckily the crank isnt damaged its cleaned up nicely.. either way time to look for the oil leak and fix everything..

IMG00002.jpg

ATI seem to have the vote, but Ross is also popular. I'm wondering when the cost becomes justified though ie over 8000 rpm? They seem to all be underdriven, which I'm not keen on for a street car anyway. Rocket sells their underdriven 5R Racing brand balancers for only $250 or so but can't tell me how they compare to the ATI or Ross.

I'd like to hear from someone who has tried standard RB26 and then ATI balancers on an RB30 to see if it cures the 'harmonic' probs supposedly associated with the RB30. Michael?

Cheers

We had a std rb25 one on previously...But at that stage we kept the revs to 7k...I dont know exactly how bad the harmonic issue is at 7500, but we had just built a 10k+ 25/30, not interested in taking chances and we needed the extra revs, so the 1000hp ati damper went on as a safe guard. All the research done on them basically said that ATI know what they are doing and their information seemed to make logical sense, plus everyone i spoke to about them had said they are the best around. When the time comes for the annual pull down and rering of the engine, we will inspect everything closely...especially the oil pump and bearings.

ATI have two types. 1st is a 500hp rated ballancer that is bolt on and works good for street cars and the 2nd is a 1000hp ballancer which is bigger and it comes with it's own water pump pully... we have used both and i think the 1000hp ballancer is just great and it fits RB25 -RB26 - RB30 engines...

Thank you

Mick

MICK:

If you wish to advertise your business on the forum please contact "Prank" or "Blitz" about becoming a trader. Also please read the forum rules. Happy to give you the benefit of the doubt this time, but further breaches = warning points.

Thank you.

Beer Baron. (FI Moderator)

Edited by Beer Baron
  • 2 weeks later...

just found this thread and after checking all over the net, ross balancers are supposed to be ANDRA specd to go quicker than 11 secs. so they must be good for decent power. I rang chris mills performance today and found out that they sell them for 230 bucks, but htey wont be released for another 6/8 weeks.

chriss mills sells ross balancers for 230???

i ended up ordering one from justjap

apprently tomei in japan have been testing these and ross have just released a new version of the balancer due to tomei reporting slight problems above 500kw and the new on has supposdly fixed all that..

get back to me on that chris mills performance price.. 230 sounds like utter crap :) or the old designed left overs!

Wazfone016.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...