Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Wash Your Car With A Hose...

Modena

By Modena,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Over here we have a few different car wash places: Car Lovers, BP and another. Within that car wash place they all have a lazer wash which is a brushless car wash, just highpressure water.

The car wash places all have the diy stuff that well; isn't named anything. :(

So over here the Lazerwash is a car wash. DIY is diy. :rofl:

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

2BNVS Veteran

2BNVS

Posted
Posted (edited)

i just fill a small bin up with water and connect my high pressure hose to it, technically its still out of the bucket coz the water isnt connected to the mains... much easier and quicker to wash the car that way

ohh and a couple weeks ago a water main was shooting water 3 feet in the air on the corner of our street, dad called the water board and they said it will take 3 days to get someone out. he said, well if it takes that long i guess u dont care about water restrictions and i cant get in trouble for washing my house and watering my garden.... they arrived within 30mins to fix it.... government is f**ked....

ben...

Edited by 2BNVS
DJ Brave Experienced

DJ Brave

Posted
Posted (edited)

A couple of months ago I got one of those waterless car wash kits. Not Polyglaz or Kitten or any of that crap, its one from the USA called "Dry Wash N Guard". I have a black Series 2 skyline that i have owned for nearly 2 yrs now and living on the Central Coast we have level 4 water restictions. I "washed" my car with this stuff and holy hellfire buggery bastard batman!!! The car has never looked this black!!

I had some water marks in the paint, now gone! I had swirls from polishing too hard and they are dramatically reduced and nearly gone! The distibuter I got it off said the more that I use this stuff the more slight imperfections will disappear.

I was sooooo sceptical before using this stuff for obvious reasons with a black car. But the water beads like nothing else now and bugs and stuff are so much easier to get off my car.

Before everyone PM's me for where I got it, keep in mind it aint cheap!!!! about $90 bucks for the 500ml kit.

But i only used about 60 or 70ml to do my whole car and now if my car isnt that dirty i just wet sponge and chammy it off in 10 mins and it looks smickoe again.

Our local carwash place has the water recycling so much that the water actually stinks and leaves brown sh*t on my car so I thought i'd try something different.

Anyway sorry for the long post but I think some people would like a different solution to the sh*tty carwashs that do more harm than good for your paint!!!

Phanks for reading!! :laugh:

Edited by DJ Brave
phee Experienced

phee

Posted
Posted

^ They already have that, the Navy boys have them on their boats.

You don't want to drain the sea out though, but with global warming and the melting of the ice caps, and the whole world being flooded, maybe it isn't such an insane idea.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

it's called desalination. they can do it. it's been done in other countries. i think there's trials in perth actually.

i'm all for it.

my mate has a rainwater catchment tank under his property, so we can legally use his hose to wash our cars.

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted
A couple of months ago I got one of those waterless car wash kits. Not Polyglaz or Kitten or any of that crap, its one from the USA called "Dry Wash N Guard". I have a black Series 2 skyline that i have owned for nearly 2 yrs now and living on the Central Coast we have level 4 water restictions. I "washed" my car with this stuff and holy hellfire buggery bastard batman!!! The car has never looked this black!!

oh crap :) i got given one of them too and I gave it away cos I didnt see how you could wash your car without water - thought it must be hella dodgy. Wish I'd kept it now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...