Few Problems That I Need Help With

[Zapata]

Well the PNV seems to have developed a few problems in recent times. Why is it that things seem to go wrong when you are trying to sell?

Anyway here they are:

1. Clutch is not holding pressure. I can pump it up and it will work while I drive. Let it sit for a day or so and the pressure is gone again and have to pump it up. It doesn't seem to be losing any fluid and can't see any visible leaks, so not sure what is going on.

2. One of the headlights has gone dim. I have been running 90/100's on the low/high. First the left side one went dim. Next time I turned the lights on it blew both fuses, replaced them, blew them again. Replaced globes with the ordinary spec(55/60s?) and fuses and it seemed to be alright for a while. Now the right hand side one is dim all the time. Its dim on both low and high beam. New fuses make no difference. Points to a possible earth problem, loose or burnt connection?

Any ideas guys?

[stagefumer11]

Well the PNV seems to have developed a few problems in recent times. Why is it that things seem to go wrong when you are trying to sell?

Anyway here they are:

1. Clutch is not holding pressure. I can pump it up and it will work while I drive. Let it sit for a day or so and the pressure is gone again and have to pump it up. It doesn't seem to be losing any fluid and can't see any visible leaks, so not sure what is going on.

2. One of the headlights has gone dim. I have been running 90/100's on the low/high. First the left side one went dim. Next time I turned the lights on it blew both fuses, replaced them, blew them again. Replaced globes with the ordinary spec(55/60s?) and fuses and it seemed to be alright for a while. Now the right hand side one is dim all the time. Its dim on both low and high beam. New fuses make no difference. Points to a possible earth problem, loose or burnt connection?

Any ideas guys?

sound like the clutch master cylinder is poked. New seals or a complete new one is required.

The other one sounds like yourve cooked your wiring. 100/90 are nearly double the current draw over a 55/60 close to 15amp's compared to the nomanal 10amp. Id say check all your wiring, follow it back im sure there will be a melted patch. If you wish to run higher wattge bulbs best to install a secondary loom kit and relays and feed them directly off the battery, Work well for me. 100w/130's and 100w high beams work well

[Ghostrider]

sound like the clutch master cylinder is poked. New seals or a complete new one is required.

The other one sounds like yourve cooked your wiring. 100/90 are nearly double the current draw over a 55/60 close to 15amp's compared to the nomanal 10amp. Id say check all your wiring, follow it back im sure there will be a melted patch. If you wish to run higher wattge bulbs best to install a secondary loom kit and relays and feed them directly off the battery, Work well for me. 100w/130's and 100w high beams work well

I'll go with stagefumer as far as your clutch goes, I had the same problem when mine sat for 3 years in the garage.

It wasn't such a biggie for me as I was replacing the slave cylinder in any case.

For anyone that wants to know and is using a heavier weight clutch plate diaphram the VL uses a 7/8 (22mm) slave cylinder as opposed to our 3/4 (19.05mm) More fluid, less pedal pressure and easier on the legs.

I have an auxilliary harness for mine, it's got written on it "Bosch System Harness" and as per pic, it has it's own relays for each bulb and heavier gauge wiring. I'm going to use it with Rallyart 170/130 H4's and IPF 130 H1's.

What happens when using high power globes, the heat generated by the power draw from the globes, is too much for the standard wiring, as it's not designed for them. Maybe if you source low input high output globes, like designed for the new style polycarbonate headlamps used in some cars today they will fix your problem. But if the heat generated has already burnt the wiring, take it to an auto elec and get him to rewire heavier gauge wiring across the headlights and your problem should be gone.

Cheers, D

[Ghostrider]

Check the plugs that connect to the globes, they could be burnt too and or melted.

Cheers, D

[discopotato03]

I'll go with stagefumer as far as your clutch goes, I had the same problem when mine sat for 3 years in the garage.

It wasn't such a biggie for me as I was replacing the slave cylinder in any case.

For anyone that wants to know and is using a heavier weight clutch plate diaphram the VL uses a 7/8 (22mm) slave cylinder as opposed to our 3/4 (19.05mm) More fluid, less pedal pressure and easier on the legs.

I have an auxilliary harness for mine, it's got written on it "Bosch System Harness" and as per pic, it has it's own relays for each bulb and heavier gauge wiring. I'm going to use it with Rallyart 170/130 H4's and IPF 130 H1's.

What happens when using high power globes, the heat generated by the power draw from the globes, is too much for the standard wiring, as it's not designed for them. Maybe if you source low input high output globes, like designed for the new style polycarbonate headlamps used in some cars today they will fix your problem. But if the heat generated has already burnt the wiring, take it to an auto elec and get him to rewire heavier gauge wiring across the headlights and your problem should be gone.

Cheers, D

Hi all , when I had the DR30 I spent a few afternoons at Pick n Payless cutting into headlight looms on MR30's . It was very obvious that the Australian delivered cars had heavier gauge wiring than that DR30 did . I'm not sure what a PNE would have but its worth a look to find out .

Nissan went to a lot of trouble to make the high low system work off two relays and operate the gauge lights as well . Mine carried the full current across the stalk switch as well which is not flash . At the time I think I worked out that it really needed 6 relays switched by the std loom to make it all work (dash as well) ie one for switched earth on each side and one each for high and low beams on both sides . Standard they are quite involved .

I would also take a close look at the reflectors in each light because the age of the things makes them a bit suspect . The Iron Mask lights have a bad habbit of damaging the chrome plating near the bulb making low beam a bit dull . There are supposed to be mobs around that can replate them but for the non Iron Mask lights good seconds are probably still around . High wattage bulbs put out a lot more heat so be sure the light unit can cope with this .

Cheers A .

[Zapata]

Thanks for the ideas guys will have a look into it all.

Is there any easy way to tell if the clutch master just needs new seals or a whole new one?

I know running the bigger globes wasn't a great idea, but it was a good easy fix that lasted a far while really. Am now going to have some fun taking of the stuff that all the wiring is in to find where the problem is.

[R30-RB30DET]

At a guess it wont be your master cylinder I would say its your slave cylinder as ive seen heaps of them stuffed on R30s before, but I may be wrong! Last time I brought a slave cylinder it cost around $25 and I got a master cylinder priced up at the same time and they wanted $45 thats NZ prices remeber though!