Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Cant seem to find anything on this in these forums, so I am asking for some guidance.

I am wanting to remove my injectors for a thorough cleaning. Can anyone give me some instructions on exactly how to do this?

The basic steps I believe are:

Run the car and pull the fuel pump fuse to remove fuel in the system.

Remove the throttle body and top half of the plenum to get at the injectors and rail (amongst a bunch of other hoses etc).

Remove the rail and injectors.

Now the stuff I need guidance on is:

Will i need new gasket for the throttle body when it is removed?

How are the injectors held in place? Only by the pressure of the rail holding them in? or do they screw in?

Do I need new o-rings? How many? Best place to get them? What should I be paying?

Are there any traps I should know about?

I am happy to do up an instruction sheet with pics and post it here if I go ahead with it.

Any help here appreciated.

Justin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139266-removing-rb25-injectors/
Share on other sites

If the throttle body gasket is still intact after disassembly apply some ultra blue silicone to it and it will ok. If in any doubt replace. Ask nissan, should be cheap as they are only paper gasket. Ive never taken injectors out of those engines but normally they are only held in place by the rail which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Hence they are sandwiched between. When you get your injectors cleaned professionally (only way to do it properly) they will supply you with all new o-rings and possibly insulators too. When reinstalling injectors make sure you use rubber grease or vaseline on the o-rings to prevent them from getting cut on insertion. When re-inserting use a twisting motion back and forth while you press them gently into the rail. Look to pay around $30 (plus gst) per injector for an ultrasonic bath clean and test.

Good luck

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

you can also use silicone based lubricant.

and as deren said, you need to get them professionally cleaned! the 'ol mr jiffy ain't gonna cut it. They actually put the injectors in a test tank and open and close them at a certain frequency to clear out all the crap. usually $20-30 per injector at most fuel injection specialists.

As far as the gasket is concerned, probably best to replace it, you can buy gasket paper and cut them to shape if the nissan ones are expensive (as they usually are)

As far as the fuse and fuel thing... I wouldn't think it was wise. Running lean like that (even briefly) could cause issues. I guess the motive behind that is to release the pressure of the fuel?

Do it the next morning, and the fuel pressure will probably drop sufficiently, but put nice thick rags under the work-area just incase eh?

Randy, it's what the workshop manuals say, so it can't be all that dangerous. (It's only a problem under load, when a lean mixture can cause detonation).

The rail is held in by 3 bolts. And it's not really necessary to separate the plenum - if you remove enough hoses and stuff, the rail will come out forwards (over the radiator).

As far as the fuse and fuel thing... I wouldn't think it was wise. Running lean like that (even briefly) could cause issues.

Eh?? Lean? It mearly runs the engine out of fuel so it doesnt spray at you when you remove fuel lines.

  • 2 months later...

My advice, take the injectors to be cleaned while still in the rail. Let them fully dissassemble it from there. They can be a tricky thing to get out without damaging them & they probably won't charge a lot more to do it if anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...