Jump to content
SAU Community

Painting Intercoolers

masTers

By masTers,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

MearCat Proficient

MearCat

Posted
Posted

The paint or not to paint in relation to performance gains/losses has been done to death and speaking from experience and having 2 temperature probes measuring ambient & intake temps, it made bugger all difference before or after painting mine. Too many people spend too much time arguing over the intricacies of a mod that may gain or lose you a couple of hp. Pffft - like you'll notice it!

As for longevity, small bits of paint do come off a little every now and then but all you have to do is get a spray can and touch it up - without getting it on your bumper :(

Attached are a couple of pics of mine when I did it a few months ago.

post-1179-1161611011.jpg

post-1179-1161611030.jpg

Dirty32 Collaborator

Dirty32

Posted
Posted

Excuse me for my ignorance - Would painting an intercooler create any restrictions on flow, or would it have any effect on the radiator??

Just to me, it would seem that by spraying a coat of something that bonds to the surface of something that takes airflow, would it not clog or block it up similar to dust or sand or gunk???

My car has a black intercooler anyway, so makes no difference to me (came with it when i got it, and i assumed r32 GTR's came with a black intercooler as stock???)

Would it not be a better practise to have the front mount anodised in a selected colour? What cost would be involved.

I had a neighbour with a WRX that had his fm intercooler anodised in gold to match his wheels and colour scheme or the STI

MearCat Proficient

MearCat

Posted
Posted

Simply mounting an intercooler in front of the radiator would have MUCH more of a flow restriction on your radiator than any coating on it, but that's what the thermofan on your radiator is for - to kick in when the coolant is too hot (even if it's caused by lack of airflow to it).

As for clogging up the fins in the intercooler, you have to to driving through some VEEEEERY hefty bug swarms to do that. The paint is not thick enough to block the airflow through the intercooler.

And yes - all the GTRs have a black intercooler as stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...