Power Output In Stock R33 Gts-t

[shoebox]

Okay, this is seriously a newbie question, but I have just put my new stock R33 GTS-T through a dyno to measure the initial power before any mods were done to it.

Why is the max power only at 132kw instead of the 180kw which it was supposedly able to do in the official R33 specifications?

No wonder it felt kinda slow. Kinda dissapointed and can't wait to fit some mods.

[paulr33]

all figures in magzines, flyers, brochers, dealers etc are all flywheel

ie: at the engine / clutch system and not at the rear wheels.

a stock gtst in 4th will make around 130 to 140rwkw.

all the hsv's that have the 250kw badging and "figures" are all the flywheel

so they would make around 200rwkw. a 200rkw skyline would smoke it no worries

[shoebox]

Ah, that explains everything. Thank you!

[RPR33]

why 5psi though it should run 5 then 7 after 4.5krmps or something like that

[shoebox]

why 5psi though it should run 5 then 7 after 4.5krmps or something like that

it should? i have no idea why... is it a configuration problem, or a mechanical fault?

[AdamsR33]

why 5psi though it should run 5 then 7 after 4.5krmps or something like that

[J_Red33]

The R33's come with a dual stage boost control solenoid that switches from low to high boost mode at roughly 4500rpm (about the same time the variable inlet cam kicks to advanced setting). It's mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower with 1 hose going off to the intake before the turbo, then another with a t-piece splitting off to go to the wastegate actuator & the intake after the turbo.

Why nissan set them up with the dual stage control like this I have no idea, makes the car a lot peakier to drive though. When you get another boost controller you can set it up for the same boost at lower revs. Far more Torquey

Edited October 22, 2006 by JazzaR33

[_Scotty_]

Mate, my R33 was on the dyno at Mercury a bit over a week ago and it made 149.4rwkw, again on a completely stock car. If you compare the graphs you'll see that i'm making around 20kws more through most of the rev range, but more importantly you'll see the difference in boost. I've grounded the wire going to the boost controller so it's in high boost all the time, but yours should still get there in the end. I'd be looking at your boost controller first, maybe read the thread on staying constantly in high boost mode and give that a shot.

[Lachlan33]

Also...why is your car redlining at 130km/h in 4th?

[paulr33]

Also...why is your car redlining at 130km/h in 4th?

eh?

[eMsta]

eh?

maybe he got confused with 130rwkw

[AdamsR33]

Here's mine, stock but with exhaust and pod, also earthed stock boost soleniod so have full 8psi all through rev range.

[r32matt]

My RB20 made 196.4kw with some small mods. I think the R34 Turbo made a big difference. Dyno Results are on my Signature. Shoebox I suggest you get rid of the Dual Stage boost and just run a constant 8-10psi.

Edited October 23, 2006 by r32matt

[RBwhatever]

My car did 150rwkw on the dyno with stock exhaust & boost, had a k&n panel filter (probably didn't do much without the exhaust done).

As said before, there's something wrong with your boost. It should be hitting 7psi.

[shoebox]

hmmm~ okay. i'll ask my mechanic about this tomorrow when i send my car down...

it should go to 7 after 4500rpm?

[The Mafia]

these figures are all over the place.

But 134rwkw is pretty normal for a stocko R33.

[Nismo_God]

well I had 145rwkw completely stock and when i got an exhaust it went to 170rwkw. how do i do the adjustment to get hi boost from stock controller all the time??? havent heard of that yet. Thanks!!

[mad082]

hmmm~ okay. i'll ask my mechanic about this tomorrow when i send my car down...

it should go to 7 after 4500rpm?

and it should be at 5psi before that. i'd say you have a split hose of something causeing a boost leak.

[shoebox]

and it should be at 5psi before that. i'd say you have a split hose of something causeing a boost leak.

okay, i'll ask him about it tomorrow. split hose!?! don't scare me! =_=

but i really doubt that it's a mechanical fault, as i sent this car down for a pre-purchase inspection a few weeks ago, and it cleared except for an oil leak from the tappet covers, castor bushes which are about to split and spark plugs which are one heat range lower than they're supposed to be.

[mad082]

about the spark plugs? do you mean they are a 6 instead of a 5? if so, thats a good thing.