Jump to content
SAU Community

Damaged My Brand New Radiator

neil_se

By neil_se,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

Well i'd driven about 3km with my new JJR radiator and somehow something got in through the back of the shroud and fan and damaged the core.

post-4038-1161505928.jpgpost-4038-1161506267.jpg

The mechanic and radiator shop said it was basically gonners but i thought it was worth a crack to see if it was fixable so took out the 5 damaged tubes (out of 62 total).

post-4038-1161506289.jpgpost-4038-1161506300.jpgpost-4038-1161506335.jpg

Can the ends actually be welded or is it too thin like the tubes themselves? I figured losing about 10% of the surface wouldn't be too bad considering the radiator is 200% larger than the stock one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139773-damaged-my-brand-new-radiator/
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

who told you it was 200% larger?

i think the only difference is its a little thicker and made entirely from aluminium.

if you could find an aluminium welder then he could probably weld the holes shut but you'll still have no guarantee it wont leak. it wont flow as much either so your % gain would be pretty much shot.

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah sorry, that was a bit of a bullshit estimate. Just comparing the 40mm aftermarket radiator to the stock ~20mm one. I just want to know if it'll still cool better than the stock one or if i'm wasting my money paying someone to weld this instead of spending another $430.

Edited by neil_se
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

i doubt it'll be safe. im not sure if you can have the tubes replaced but if you cant then i really wouldnt risk it. another $430 is cheap compared to a $5000 rebuild.

someone else may be able to tell you if it will flow better than stock if you weld up the holes.

sorry mate.

AndrewD Contributor

AndrewD

Posted
Posted

You could get a competant welder to block those tubes off, however you may have punctured the surrounding tubes by removing the fins off of them.

Best thing is to get it done, take it to a radiator shop and get them to pressure test it.

If it passes the test, remember to block off the hole so air will not flow through that section of the core.

Ive done it before, however i removed the tanks and seamed it from the top of the tank flange other than the bottom as you have done there. Proved reliable. Just need to pressure test it before you put it on.

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm pretty sure all the other tubes are ok, the fins broke away pretty easily but there's one small spot i'm not sure of. I've got someone who's going to weld it up (the rad shop doesn't do alloy welding) then i'll get it pressure tested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...