Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all... In the R33 GTST when the door is open theres a beeper to remind you the door is open.. maybe a security thing??? no idea.. has anyone disconnected it? i don't know where to start lookin. the guy that owned the car before me made a huge mess of the wiring

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139778-open-door-reminder/
Share on other sites

door open or key in warning? if its the key in one the best way is to pull the column shroud off and unplug a two pin brown plug on the key barrel. that shoudl silnce it.

In the door there is a little rubber boot that gets pressed in when the door is closed, if you take the clip off holding this in there is a little white connection plug. One of these wires is for the beeper, I usually just unplug the little boot when I am working on the car with the keys in (e.g. listening to music with the door open while i work)

I want to get mine permanantly disconnected too, drives me nuts.

I also want to get the reminder beep for the headlights changed so that it works when the keys are out but the car is still running (so it reminds me when the turbo timer is still on). Otherwise I will just have to remember to turn them off - not hard but I never hear the reminder even if i leave the lights on cos it is always running when I lock the car.

I also want to get the reminder beep for the headlights changed so that it works when the keys are out but the car is still running (so it reminds me when the turbo timer is still on). Otherwise I will just have to remember to turn them off - not hard but I never hear the reminder even if i leave the lights on cos it is always running when I lock the car.

Ditto. The problem is with a turbo timer it tricks the rest of the car into thinking the key is still in the ignition and turned on. You wouldn't want to have the headlight reminder beeping while you were driving :(

There must be a solution to it but it depends on your alarm and how much of a guru the installer is. I should probably hassle mine to come up with a fix sometime.

Failing that I've got jumper leads in the boot so if I do flatten it hopefully I can flag someone down and get a jump :O

In the door there is a little rubber boot that gets pressed in when the door is closed, if you take the clip off holding this in there is a little white connection plug. One of these wires is for the beeper, I usually just unplug the little boot when I am working on the car with the keys in (e.g. listening to music with the door open while i work)

I want to get mine permanantly disconnected too, drives me nuts.

I also want to get the reminder beep for the headlights changed so that it works when the keys are out but the car is still running (so it reminds me when the turbo timer is still on). Otherwise I will just have to remember to turn them off - not hard but I never hear the reminder even if i leave the lights on cos it is always running when I lock the car.

your last request will take a bit of fiddling with relays- doable but a challenge. you need to tell the module that the car is 'off' and from there it will work. a single relay off the second output off the timer will do it.

as for the key beep. see above post I answered that one.

Heh.. with the turbo timer, I don't get the beep because the alarm thinks the car is still on. (and it is really)

Problem is if I leave the parkers or cabin light on, I don't get the chime.

Apart from that, what i'd really like to see, is someone convert the output of the beeper into an LED flasher. I'd find that FAR less annoying when vacuuming my car!

Geoff, i'll probably hit you up with some of those questions! =-D

I feel your pain people! It used to drive me insane even when i was just opening the door to get out and open the garage!

I had an auto electrician who went and unplugged a few things to get it to stop, although it also stopped other things like my interior light sensor,and other things that went through it, so i had to undo his bad work!

So then i investigated my self and found where the sound is coming from. Underneath the dash, near the steering column to the right, you will see a black plastic box, a bit bigger then a cigirette packet, its mounted on an angle parralel to the steering column, it has one bold holding it on by a steel braket. Pull of the removable pannel on the dash so you can see in better (i think this is for the fuses, cant think at the moment).

Unbolt the box and unplug the harness going into it. Then take it to a bench incase you drop it when you pull it apart. For memory it opens with clips on one end, and then the circuit board slides out from one end. Once you have the circuit board out you will see a fairly big black cylinder mounted on it. This is your annoying bastard of a speaker/beeper!

From there just grap your soldierer and carefully unsoldier it from the two pins coming out the underside of the board, and carefully pull it up and out while the soldier is still hot. Put it all back together how it was pluging the harness back in and your done. Enjoy the peacefull sound of silence!

This sounds hard but is piss easy, and i have found no problems with door sensors etc. since doing it about a month ago. It does not trick the car into thinking anything is on etc. I was worried that something ran parralel through the speaker as possible a trigger for something else, but I have seen no sign of this. Its completly reversable anyway by just soldiering the beeper back on. One of the best mods I have done! haha

What do we think?

do you have a lights on reminder??

Obviously not, as the speaker is not there anymore, although this wasnt an issue for me as my previous car was a VK Commodore, which barely had lights bright enough to be called lights, let alone, a light reminder. Therefore, forgetting to leave my lights on isnt really an issue for me as I have never been reliant on a reminder.

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=167222

:)

Dont know if the turbo/N/A skyline wiring is differant but thats how i did mine..

That's a nice simple way to do it. Can you confirm if it still beeps when you've left the lights on and key is out of ignition?

That's a nice simple way to do it. Can you confirm if it still beeps when you've left the lights on and key is out of ignition?

its for the door only... but im pretty sure the lights wire will be connected to the same box, I wrote that article on my boost cruising account, I found it by trial and error, Just removing a lug then putting the key in the ignition, and seeing if it still beeped, Until i found the wire which it didnt... Do the same except with the lights :) Ill actually go do this now.. Ill tell you how i go.

For the headlights on, Im 90% sure its the red with the blue stripe wire, As all of the lighting wires ive worked with on my car have been this color.. there is one in the cluster of wires that goes into that box in the link i sent... Im not sure how to pull the wire out though.. its differant to the other wirres.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...