Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Just helping out my nephew with a problem he is having.

He has taken his car back to the workshop 3 times and still has a problem with overheating.

Can you unblock a radiator by flushing it?

Can you have a air blockage if the thing has not been bleed properly?

Is there any other sorts of things that can be causing this re-occuring problem?

Thanks in advance

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139794-over-heating-on-gtr32/
Share on other sites

You can reverse flush your cooling system, id be getting the radiator professionally done by the proper people as they have special equipment for all that which wont damage the radiator.

Yes you can have a air pocket stuck in the cooling system, If any of the pipes are above the motor they can get an airpocket in them, you should gently push down on the pipe if its higher than the motor to make it level while the engine is running the pocket should bleed itself out with the radiator cap removed.

Could also be a faulty thermostat, radiator pressure cap umm thats all i can think of at the moment, possible water pump??? i guess if its ceased.... not too sure on that one.

Cap, air-pocket,thermo,or pump.....any more.

Surely water pumps can't cease?

yeh they can.

Check around the pump for signs of water leaking out.

Water gets out-air gets in!!

I had slight water usage just before destroying an engine due to a head gasket that had corroded thru from the water jacket to the combustion chamber.

Used a slight amount of water before going bang.

Good luck lets us know wat u find.

. Check radiator cap see if seal still good, only cost $10-20 for a new one.

. Check for signs of leakage from water pump.

. Pull radiator out, send it to a Radiator shop for removal of of tank and a good flush.

. When re-fill coolant, jack the car up a bit, runs heater at full blast, bleed coolant from the screw on the engine block.

. Check or test Thermal Stat.

. Still don't work, a leak down test will tell.

Cap, air-pocket,thermo,or pump.....any more.

Surely water pumps can't cease?

No, they SEIZE. (Well, I guess when they seize, they cease.)

But the Japs are famous for not using inhibitor in their cars, and the blades on the pump impeller corrode away - that's the more usual problem.

He has taken his car back to the workshop 3 times and still has a problem with overheating.

Can you unblock a radiator by flushing it?

I believe radiator shops take the tanks off the ends and clear out any blockage by simply pushing metal rods through the core. I havent got a std radiator in mine so i'm not sure whether they can have this treatment.

Also, to check the thermostat just put it in a sausepan of warm water on the stove with a thermometer and check that it opens at the right temperature (cant remember what that is tho).

Rgs,

Kot

lol yeah i really am a girl

and yeah with what mr kotter said i think from memory it could be around 50-60degrees, but check on that, beacuse i could be waay off

Thanks I will see if its the thermostate then.

;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Stock gtr thermostat opens at 76.5c Most engines thermostats open much later..

Elk: No, they SEIZE. (Well, I guess when they seize, they cease.)

LOL

Yeah ive seen plenty of them seize.

Id first be checking your overflow bottle level, if its low do a presure test on the system. If not run the engine and check that both lower and upper radiator hoses get hot meaning the thermostat has opened. leave the cap off during this period making sure there are no more air bubbles coming out before you put it back on..can take upto10 mins or more.. Give the engine a rev to help circulate the coolant and remove air pockets.. Once this is done then check to make sure your fan clutch is grabbing once hot enough. If he has overheated it bad enough there is a good chance you have screwed the head gasket too.. Possibly do a Co2 test to confirm.

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...