Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dan,

thanks for your reply about the CAS... That helps answer the question big time!

Also, I have just loaded up the haltech software on my work pc, coil dwell time can be set between 0.2ms right up to 20ms.

....

This is 'tested' on Version 1.11.1 of ECU Manager.

I know they are constantly adding new things to the software + ecu's with each update.... so it may have not always been in there.

post-49724-0-37608100-1352433077_thumb.png

Standard dwell on left, max on right for illustration purposes.

Using a R32 / R33 Platinum Pro base map to work off

Yeah you can set dwell time but can only choose one figure for the entire rev range.

In something like a Wolf V550 you can set coil charge time over RPM and also over battery voltage. It has a full tuning table for both at 125RPM intervals

Quick voltage vs rpm for ign. dwell.

Obviously not as detailed down to every ~125rpm or there abouts as some ecu's can do but it's still able to do same basis.

I should probably have gone a bit further than using single axis of RPM and moved into the full map to cover more values.

edit - stupid me not attaching. fixed.

post-49724-0-88270600-1352434206_thumb.png

Edited by Force Fed

As per text mate. Am happy to see if i can find anything else that may have been added since yourself / Sean had a look. :)

At least they are bringing out new "features" on same hardware!

You got a promotion, Nick? From auto-sparky to car assembly? Haha.

At least you've got a project to work on.

im auto lek/mechanic now man... once i finish this car and finish building these new ones ill be into the workshop full time. instead of goin from 1 side to the other

Everyone should stop talking about finishing their cars off and actually do it :)

I want to do some more photo's

Edit.jpg

Took the fitting out of the filter/cooler housing on my block today, going to go chasing a replacement male to male fitting for it on monday for my oil cooler. Was going to relocate the filter but have decided I don't really need to and dont really have the room

Am thinking about doing a catch can setup but. just deciding on how to do it

umm autobarn actually sell some decent quality parts... and the price isnt even that bad (depending on what u buy)

doesnt matter what shop it is. its not nice seeing it go up in flames. specially when 4 little cun7s lit it up

Yeah jokes aside its not real cool at all, the fact that it was young girls setting fire to a toy shop a few weeks from christmas makes it pretty horrible

When I was 12 I never would have dreamt of doing that, Parenting these days has taken a slide for the worst

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...