Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey E_Lu-SHuN

Fitted my PFC and ran it up and the air con and everything works fine. The only thing I did notice was that it sounded like the controls for the fan unit where it diverts it to the face/feet/window etc. made some clicking noises then after a few seconds it went away.

Sounds like the air con issue is happening to a few guys, could be a setting in the control unit maybe if its happened to a few people?

Giulian

  • 3 weeks later...

OK so i all the mech stuff done now.

On to the wiring, mine seems to be similar as someone else posted, when i neutral the reverse switch cicruit is closed, when in reverse it opens. How do i get around this?

And the speedo sensor plug is different, some people's seem to be the same? Can i just wire this up to the one in the car?

hey, thats the one thing that i forgot to document...the speed signal. i know i didnt change mine so it must of been wired up to the plug..ill double check with that...have to get under the car.

reverse circuit closed, so the reverse light goes on?

if thats the case, then u hooked it up to the neutral switch..

test the switch out to find which one is the reverse switch by putting the gb in reverse...and then getting a multi meter to test for continuity

Its definatley the switch with the brown wire's.

I'll get back underneath it when im back from work and have a look.

I was hoping to not have to buy a R34 speed sensor, but by the looks of it i will, unless i can just wire this one up?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi SAU Thanks guys your posts have helped heaps. I have a 98 r34gtt auto with 92,000 kms i picked up for a crazy 9k 6 weeks ago and the thing is after I spent all this money on a R33gtst which until some drunk knob nearly killed me my 'Blue Phantom' had a fully rebuilt/stroked/forged engine running gt3570r turbo with microtech computer. It was running 270rwkw on 14p. Just needed bigger injectors and it wouldve been fun. LOL. Lucky i got my payout n bought car back for peanuts. Anyways I still have the engine/gearbox/clutch/ecu etc. As i have all the parts execpt the lines I was quoted $600 to install everything. I guess I'd need a manual ecu and new cluster. I have put my tein na coilovers from the r33 into the 34, the front mount, front slotted rotors. I wrecked the car myself and have rebuilt a cbr rr 250 with a mate when eveyone told me to sell it. If i hadn't I for sure wouldn't have done all the stuff with the r33/r34. So thanks guys I may atempt the conversion with a mate and save the the $600.

sorry about the pics guys, it will be up and runnning again shortly after i get my domain renewed...expired 40days ago..to reactivate costs $US135, wait an extra 40days for the domain to go public will only cost $US9 to register again...go figure ;)

Hey Blue phantom,

You dont need a ECU, Auto ECU will still run and the cluster will still work, the good thing with the auto cluster is that when we engage reverse...the REVERSE symbol on the cluster lights up!

  • 2 weeks later...

can someone just confirm that ALL parts (excluding gearbox) required are:

r33 clutch kit

r33/34 manual tailshaft

r33/34 flywheel

r33/34 manual spigot bush

r33/34 clutch master cylinder

r33/34 slave cylinder

r33/34 clutch master to slave cylinder lines

r33/34 pedal assembly

am i missing something?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Mate, just onequestion...

what will happen to the speed sensor on manual box..? please explain. im bit confuse. i'm just about to do the r33 manual convertion.

  • 1 month later...

OK so i all the mech stuff done now.

On to the wiring, mine seems to be similar as someone else posted, when i neutral the reverse switch cicruit is closed, when in reverse it opens. How do i get around this?

And the speedo sensor plug is different, some people's seem to be the same? Can i just wire this up to the one in the car?

I have this same prob. Any ideas? I've tried both switches, I def have the right one hooked up...

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok this is my first post.. Im new to this world of nissan. I have recently got a 99 stagea rwd auto. Its a RB25det Neo. Is this a r33 or 34 motor? Now having made my self look a twat to all you hard core nissaners could this conversion be done to my stag?? If so has anyone done it?? I like my car its very clean and low kms so i think its worth the effort? any opinions and suggestions would be great. thumbsup.gif

rb25det is in both the R33 and R34, however only the R34 has the rb25det with the NEO head (the engine cover will have 'neo' printed on it) and if you really like your car and can be bothered doing the conversion then go ahead but it is a lot of effort and most people will say just sell it and buy a manual, but it's up to you who cares what others think right?

  • 2 months later...

Hey mate

great tutorial thanks for taking the time to write it.

Am going to print this and give it to my mechanic to do the conversion once I sort all the parts, thanks again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...