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ok prity good tute just one question

i have done the conversion on an r33 series 1 i am having problems with the speedo

the speedo is reading half the normal speed do i need to change the dash cluster to overcome this ?

ok prity good tute just one question

i have done the conversion on an r33 series 1 i am having problems with the speedo

the speedo is reading half the normal speed do i need to change the dash cluster to overcome this ?

Shouldn't have to but may as well as it will probs fix it, unless you did the wiring wrong?

How do you get the spiggot bush out the auto motor, Ive got a slide hammer which fits the manual one but the big fitting is too big and the small fitting is too small, aside from buying another slide hammer how else can I try and get it out?

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i'm doing the r33 auto to manual conversion and just trying to clarify the tail shaft situation.

when i lay both tail shafts nest to each other, both are different lengths and the yoke that fits into the rear of the box is obviously different too.

did you guys seperate the front halves and swap them around then balance the new tail shaft or did you simply throw the manual one in?

if you measure carefully, you can see that the rear section of both tailshafts differs by about 15 mm from where it bolts up to the diff and centre bearing.

ok i sorted the tailshaft situation, I didnt realize the S2 diff had a ABS sensor in it which made the tailshaft a little short for my non ABS S1 diff.

just a note for anyone wanting to do this on an R33, two posts i used the gave me everything i needed were,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/page__gopid__6255171#entry6255171

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/285791-manual-conversion/page__st__20__gopid__6255165#entry6255165

To ROLLS i usually remove spigot bearings with a special puller however on the night i couldn't find the little bastard so i cut into the inner surface in two spots along its length with my nifty small air hacksaw (i hear a few sighs there) about 3 mm apart. i don't recommend this method for new people because its just to easy to damage the surface of the crank however i have steady hands to pull something like that off once. once i made those cuts as deep as i could without coming too close, i used a chisel to punch out the sliver i just carved and the bearing came out by finger.

here are some pics.

post-9238-0-70732600-1330439464_thumb.jpg

post-9238-0-40199600-1330439494_thumb.jpg

post-9238-0-82498900-1330439520_thumb.jpg

post-9238-0-49591500-1330439559_thumb.jpg

I did something similar, got a chisel, hit it from one side, then the other side, repeated for 30 minutes until it came lose. Was a total prick of a job.

yeah i could imagine, safer than my approach though.

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I did something similar, got a chisel, hit it from one side, then the other side, repeated for 30 minutes until it came lose. Was a total prick of a job.

They are piss easy to get out with the following method (well ive never had trouble anyway):

Pack old bush full of bearing grease, find a socket of other tool with exact inside diameter and place inside of bush and bash with a hammer and let pneumatics or whatever do the job. Basically the grease has no where to go so pushed the bush out. In my case I use a universal clutch aligning tool as it fits perfectly.

  • 1 month later...

I did this AGES ago to my 34 and never hooked the speedo up, now i want to get it working but cant for the life of me remember which wire/plug etc is the one for the speedo, anyone able to help me with a pic and colours of the wire's needed etc?

Cheer's!

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msports180

check out the first post in this thread

pay attention to where it says "the speedo sensors have universal looms so they just plug right into manual/auto without any modifications."

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/page__gopid__6255171#entry6255171

Kenna802,

pictures of which part would you like?

If it was that easy i would of done it in the first place, some of them seem to have different plugs, or different senders. I'll just trace it back to the speed signal on the ECU.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok sorry, um the sender unit on the box that i found is a grey plug. it has two pins in it and is located on the drivers side of the box about half way from the bell housing to the output shaft and is closer to the engine than the other two plugs, being the neutral and reverse switch plugs. It is about 5 cm in length protruding from the box its self.

Your R34 should have the same two pin plug in the chasis loom that will have a length to match.

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