Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I purchased my first skyline about 2 months ago now (1995 R33 GTSt). Claiming that it has done only 60,000ks... im sure thats crap with how easy replacement clusters are to get, but the actual car is in very good condition.

Now i seem to get about 320km out of a full tank of PULP (V power) and i just think that i should be getting more than that considering i dont very regularly drive it hard.

The car is completely stock minus the factory air box being replaced with an Apexi power intake. But the effeciency was about the same when i did have the factory intake.

The engine seems to run very smoothly but can sometimes produce a very off smell that may last for 30 seconds and then all is fine again for the rest of a day of driving... (i thought the smell issue may have been a clutch issue at first as when i got the car it happened mainly when reversing... high slippage when parking, but now its just very random)

Any ideas or suggestions?

Cheers

Cam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141124-r33-fuel-efficiency/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Lots of topics on this.. Do a search!!

320km on a stock 33 is really bad..

You might need to do a full service.. Maybe replace 02 sensor.

Car running rich but? Shouldnt be if its stock!! if it is might need a tune up..

Maybe also replace fuel filter and oil filter..

As for the other issue if its the clutch then you should know it immediately. Does the car tend to rev but not go anywhere??

Or the clutch only slips in reverse gear??

Probably worth gettin a new clutch then reconditioning it.

firstly, how many litres are you talking about as a full tank?

secondly, how 'spirited' is your driving?

thirdly is it city (where you may be sitting in traffic for a bit) or highway?

all of these (especially the first one) will determine whether your economy is good or not.

:yucky:

if you're talking 320kms on 45 litres, then that's 14L/100kms. that's not too bad in city driving, boosting occasionally. if you live out in the sticks, then alot of freeway should see that figure go up quite a bit, maybe 11L/100kms.

Lots of short drives also consumes more fuel as the car isnt up to optimum operating temps.

Also, driving style makes a big difference.

I wouldnt say this is terrible economy.

Im running stock boost, Blitz Pod and HKS Priest catback. I get about 320-400Km per say 55-60 Litres. That is with a bit of 'Spirited mountain driving' :yucky:

Id say I get between 12-17L/100KM depending how I drive. So it would theoretically be possible to get 500 Kays to a tank... If I put a phone book under the accellerator...

As i did say my driving is very casual 90% of the time so im not wasting juice on that. I'm filling up the tank till the pump wont gime any more :) and running down as low as the guage can basically go, but not enough to turn on the fuel light. I also dont appear to blowing and black smoke, very clean exhaust from what i can tell.

I am mostly doin city driving but i have a place down the mornington peninsular and when driving back and forth from there the effeciency really doesnt increase by much at all (maybe 360-370km). This really surprised me as my old car would give me 100ks more per tank when doin only 100km/ph driving)

As for the clutch issue, no the clutch takes up perfectly fine when driving, no unwanted slipping.. i was refering to like when i reverse park there is slippage caused by myself of cause and thats what first made me think it could be clutch coz thats when i first smelt it, but it doesnt seem to happen then anymore... just randomly during general driving, and i might drive the car for an hour or more after and it never returns.. strange..

i must have typed something wrong as i did do a search for "topics only" on fuel effeciency over the entire SAU forum and got nothing relevant. Most searches ive done using "entire post" has given me so many unrelated posts ive stopped using it..

But thank you all for your responses so far. It's gettin close to its first 5000km since ive owned it so i'll prolly get em to do a more thorough look over the vehicle.

Cheers

Cam

My bog standard R33 GTS-T gets almost 500km to a tank... less if I'm driving, but about that when my wife has it. - I forget what the fill volume is, but $60-$70 at $1.3L = ~45L

That's mainly city driving although it does get ~4 45 minute Hwy trips a week (out to the folks and back).

It's worse than my Lancer, but better than my Laser (although that may have been pissing fuel out of the pump so it doesn't really count).

I havent been able to source exactly where the smell was coming from but next time it happens i'll try and pin point it.

Is there some way i can find out if unburnt fuel is making it to the cat without pulling out that section of the exhaust?

Also what would cause this over injection of fuel? its the stock ECU as u've all prolly gathered so mixture cant be changed there, but would it be becuase say the air flow meter is reading higher readings than is actually making it into the manifold?

Thanks for ya help all

Cam

My bog standard R33 GTS-T gets almost 500km to a tank... less if I'm driving, but about that when my wife has it. - I forget what the fill volume is, but $60-$70 at $1.3L = ~45L

That's mainly city driving although it does get ~4 45 minute Hwy trips a week (out to the folks and back).

It's worse than my Lancer, but better than my Laser (although that may have been pissing fuel out of the pump so it doesn't really count).

factory fuel tanks take 65liters of juice

Rather than just guessing what a tank of fuel is, calculate your consumption. When you fill the tank see how many litres it takes to fill it, note your kays & work it out. It does sound from what you've said though as far as the needle reading empty, that your consumption is poor.

If you don't think your O2 sensor has been changed DO IT! I personally left it longer than I should have (& I should know better), it was completely shot & I was getting about 15L/100km. Now I'm doing around 12L/100km give or take a bit. Most of my driving is is the city & I do give it a bootfull off the line quite regularly. Cruising on an interstater I'd see 10's easy, maybe less.

Most people don't realise how important an O2 sensor is to your economy but it's vital to getting good consumption. It should be changed once every 5 years & it's worth it. I'm now saving at least $10 a week or about $520 a year on petrol to what it would cost me if I hadn't changed the sensor.

NTK 1's retail for something like $130, you'll get your money back within 13 weeks if you go through a tank a week at the moment, or even more if you travel further.

Oh & you can probably smell fuel when the car is stationary wafting in though your window or vents, since it'll be running rich as. Look at your rear bar, if it's getting lots of black crap on it she's rich as buggery.

Edited by JazzaR33
Rather than just guessing what a tank of fuel is, calculate your consumption. When you fill the tank see how many litres it takes to fill it, note your kays & work it out. It does sound from what you've said though as far as the needle reading empty, that your consumption is poor.

If you don't think your O2 sensor has been changed DO IT! I personally left it longer than I should have (& I should know better), it was completely shot & I was getting about 15L/100km. Now I'm doing around 12L/100km give or take a bit. Most of my driving is is the city & I do give it a bootfull off the line quite regularly. Cruising on an interstater I'd see 10's easy, maybe less.

Most people don't realise how important an O2 sensor is to your economy but it's vital to getting good consumption. It should be changed once every 5 years & it's worth it. I'm now saving at least $10 a week or about $520 a year on petrol to what it would cost me if I hadn't changed the sensor.

NTK 1's retail for something like $130, you'll get your money back within 13 weeks if you go through a tank a week at the moment, or even more if you travel further.

Oh & you can probably smell fuel when the car is stationary wafting in though your window or vents, since it'll be running rich as. Look at your rear bar, if it's getting lots of black crap on it she's rich as buggery.

So even if my 96 S2 has around 54,000 KMs on the odometer I should replace my O2 sensor?

Hmmm I might do that at the next service... dunno whether to get the EL falcon O2 sensor or buy a genuine R33... any advice?

sir d - NTK make a direct replacement for about 100$ odd dollars.

It's pretty much the same price as the el sensor, but has the correct plug.

I disagree with you guys. I have a consult screen, and I have have used the consult interface with my laptop to graph the o2 sensor output.

My fuel economy is shit - about 300ks to a tank. But the o2 sensor is fine.

sir d - NTK make a direct replacement for about 100$ odd dollars.

It's pretty much the same price as the el sensor, but has the correct plug.

I disagree with you guys. I have a consult screen, and I have have used the consult interface with my laptop to graph the o2 sensor output.

My fuel economy is shit - about 300ks to a tank. But the o2 sensor is fine.

Can I have the NTK contacts? A site perhaps?

Cheers.

Lots of topics on this.. Do a search!!

320km on a stock 33 is really bad..

You might need to do a full service.. Maybe replace 02 sensor.

Car running rich but? Shouldnt be if its stock!! if it is might need a tune up..

Maybe also replace fuel filter and oil filter..

As for the other issue if its the clutch then you should know it immediately. Does the car tend to rev but not go anywhere??

Or the clutch only slips in reverse gear??

Probably worth gettin a new clutch then reconditioning it.

I think you should follow what siddr20 has said :yes: the filters can make a huge difference.

How many litres are you using?

I do around 380KM to 45Litres (And the needle is pretty damn low!)

I've never wanted to go any further, as I never knew how much fuel and R33 held until just then.

But with my economy... I'm in the 11L/100km gallery.

Sir-d, Kudosmotorsport on here sells them..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194

Btw yes changing your fuel filter will help a lot..

But since my car has a few mods and runnin rich, a good tune will help me towards my fuel mileage..

Otherwise for a stock car, i reckon the fuel filter. BUt if people claim 02 sensor helps then worth a try!!

Sir-d, Kudosmotorsport on here sells them..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194

Btw yes changing your fuel filter will help a lot..

But since my car has a few mods and runnin rich, a good tune will help me towards my fuel mileage..

Otherwise for a stock car, i reckon the fuel filter. BUt if people claim 02 sensor helps then worth a try!!

Thanks!

:ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...