Jump to content
SAU Community

Catalytic Converter, What To Get..

Fugi

By Fugi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fugi Community Regular

Fugi

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

After a long week of getting my new power FC installed and got my self a terrific tune at Race Pace it has ended badly. I went to race pace thinking that i had a full turbo back 3" zorst however after reciving my car i was told that my cat was a povo 2.5".. :P .. Whats the point...

so race pace did the best job they could gettin 150rwkw out of my car... yea i know dont laugh... just because the mechanics that put my exhast on are very stupid... and ripped me off..

So as the title states i am looking for a Cat converter im not the ritches guy but i do like spoilling my car.

So what brands should i look for???

i have a R32 GTSt looking for 3" cat.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141140-catalytic-converter-what-to-get/
Share on other sites
psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

There are some cheap ones on ebay, I wonder how they would go... surely the straight pipe that bolts in (ie, no cat) would only do good things. They are about $80 on ebay. If you are running a stock one at the moment, its probably very old and blocked, so you'd notice the difference removing it.

saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is the cat you want.

post-14974-1162251135.jpg

I think it's made by magnaflow, it's a metal cat. It is classified as a 3.5" inlet/outlet cat, one

side is centred, the other is offset. No flanges on it, and it costs about $400 if you get it wholesale.

There might be a GB on that will get you one cheaper.

The actual cat section is the bit in the middle; the other parts have no material in them and are to expand

it out from 3.5" or whatever your input size is. If your input size is smaller, make an expander :yucky:

I sectioned it back to suit my 4" pipework and external gate's outlet - you could probably put this into

6" pipework if you really wanted (but you would be well outside the manufacturer's designed operating

range then).

Am going to get it emissions-tested; when I do, I'll post the results. Seat-of-the-pants feel is that

this single cat outflows the dual 3" catco cats I had on my last exhaust by a little... but that's only

a feeling at this stage :sick:

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya
CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

metalcat 3" cat. stainless outsite, stainless inside! no ceramic rubbish! $280. form the group buy section but you need to flanges put on it or order one with the correct flanges :D mine performs like I have no restriction in the exhaust at all.

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted
sorry to jump in, but now i'm concerned.

what size does my cat look to be. this is a 3 inch pipe before and after the cat.

thats the standard 2.5 inch compliance cat from when the car was imported.

Sorry to say but its time for a new one.

Fugi Community Regular

Fugi

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yea i have been looking at a magnaflow.. but i might cheack out this one on ebay.. not the straight pipe with a bolt on it though not readdy to pay thousands in fines...

Ay monkeyboy looks like u have the same problem as me.. i renember seeing a thread of this guy selling alot of stuff a little while back and he was sellin 2 magnaflows but i doubt they are as HC as saliya's cat damm..

so might want to have a look...

Edited by Fugi
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

X-Force 3 inch highlow - Stainless Flanged cat - (Flows up to 570 cfm)

$160 delivered from Just Jap. You cant beat that price. It's a forum special. Usually $199+delivery.

I just ordered one.

here's the link if you're interested.

http://www.justjap.com/forumxforcespecial.htm

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...