Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know where I can get some taller diff ratios for a GTR

S15 manual uses 3.7 CWP from memory and is same R200 (more-or-less), so should fit, but I haven't tried this one. But what do you do with the front diff ??....might be some aftermarket CWP's for the front diff, but probably not common and whether you could get the same ratio is another matter. Of course you could just always run in RWD, but the taller ratio will kill acceleration.

Thanks for the responses:

ookami; it's an R32 GTR.

SteveL; yes the front diff is a problem. using RB26/30 with a 7250 redline so would like to try using extra torque and taller ratios to give it longer legs. In 2wd I couldnt afford the tyres :)

TO4GTR; the 34 GTR ratios look good. It's got to be a signficant difference otherwise it's not worth the effort so the Stagea is probably out. Now to find some 34 GTR centres....

Cheers

Thanks for the responses:

ookami; it's an R32 GTR.

SteveL; yes the front diff is a problem. using RB26/30 with a 7250 redline so would like to try using extra torque and taller ratios to give it longer legs. In 2wd I couldnt afford the tyres :yes:

TO4GTR; the 34 GTR ratios look good. It's got to be a signficant difference otherwise it's not worth the effort so the Stagea is probably out. Now to find some 34 GTR centres....

Cheers

it will be tall as f**k

there are heaps of choices...3.5, 3.7, 3.9 4.08, 4.11, 4.3 etc..

as long as they are all r200 meh :P

3.9 is my vote for rb30det ( i know the pain of short gears with the 3lt ;) )

Yer - but there aren't heaps of choices for the F160 front diff

I've gone the other way (put a 4.11 diff into my R34 GTR) and I can tell you it has made a massive difference. For my applications it's been awesome but I'd hate to imagine going back the other way. Still if thats what you are chasing it sure is an option.

Hi Snowman, I thought that putting a 4.11 into an R34 would make it really short as from memory the box ratios are shorter in the R34, just more of them. If the intended application you're referring to is track work, that makes sense. Looked into an R34 box with standard diffs once and decided against it as there wasn't much gain in legs overall compared to the standard R32 set up.

  • 2 months later...

still wanting to run either 3.7 or 3.5 ratios, rarity of 3.7 looks like it will have to be 3.5 which means 34 GTR.

i think the 34 and 32 housings are the same but not sure if the internals are the same, and i'm under the impresson that that all 34s have active diffs.

does anyone know if the crown and pinion from a 34 will bolt into an R32 GTR and work, particularly if my assumption about the 34 diffs all being active is correct?

still wanting to run either 3.7 or 3.5 ratios, rarity of 3.7 looks like it will have to be 3.5 which means 34 GTR.

i think the 34 and 32 housings are the same but not sure if the internals are the same, and i'm under the impresson that that all 34s have active diffs.

does anyone know if the crown and pinion from a 34 will bolt into an R32 GTR and work, particularly if my assumption about the 34 diffs all being active is correct?

I assume that you have actually done the numbers on this? Worked out the max speed in each gear and the top speed?

With 245/45/17 tyres and a 4.1 diff ratio you are currently looking at the following ~KPH in each gear at 7,500 rpm

1st = 66 kph

2nd = 115 kph

3rd = 168 kph

4th = 220 kph

5th = 289 kph

Do you really need a top speed more than 289 kph?

For cruising, 2,850 rpm = 110 kph (speed limit) in 5th gear. That's off boost for any turbo sized to allow max power at 7,000 rpm. So economy is good, but overtaking power is only a short squeeze on the throttle away, no down change required.

Keep in mind that R32GTST's have a 4.3 to 1 diff ratio and weigh 200 kgs less than your GTR. Similary comparing your GTR to a R33GTST with RB30 may lead to the wrong conclusion. So don't ignore the weight factor when you are working out optimal gearing or the extra transmission losses from the 4wd.

How often did you drive around 5th gear with the 2.6 litre? Not often (other than highway driving) I bet. With the 3 litre you just use a higher gear than you would with the 2.6 litre.

My suggestion, as it has been with 20 or so others that have had RB30DET's, drive it around first, then decide. So far not one of those guys has changed the diff ratio.

:pwned: cheers :O

Hi Gary:

it's not the top speed I'm wanting, it's the legs in lower gears. i know someone with a GTR and 26/30 and he suggests that it feels very short in the gears, from memory Cubes has remarked on the same thing.

i would like to take the drive it first then decide approach, i understood that getting the front diff out with the engine in place was almost impossible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...