Jump to content
SAU Community

Weirdness On Dyno

huddy

By huddy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

hi there

had a tune on the car not too long ago - only been out to the track once with it as it was... basically had powerfc / z32 / gtr inj / hks 2530 / rb24... results were 220 @ 1bar as i didnt have a boost controller and thats what the actuator was set at...

ok so last friday i get it back to the dyno with a gizzmo ibc fitted, i was told all i would need is a power run just to make sure once i have it fitted, just get the a/f ratios checked with the extra boost. fair enough :)

originally the tune was air fuel ratios 12 - 13's so fairly good. Now with any sorta boost at all above 1 bar or at 1bar, its running 14's in the fuel ratio's...

only things changed were - adding of the IBC - change of fuel filter (ryco z200) / oil filter (K&N) / air filter (K&N) / oil (motul 300v 10w40).

has anybody had any similar problems like this?

i also have an inconsistant misfiring problem, which may be injector plug as its only number 2 cylinder cutting spark. i will be pulling the loom out to check for green goop and clean everything up appropriately. check the link for no spark issue -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=141348

thanks

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142925-weirdness-on-dyno/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Is it just me: I consider anything above 12 (a/f) lean.

I would prefer to have a/f ratios sitting at 11.5 - 12.

As Adriano has stated, you need to get the Pfc re-tuned. If you still can't lower the a/f ratio start looking at upgrading parts of the fuel system.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

yep as you increased the boost

its increase P (load) so its moved it down on the load map a bit more to an un-tuned area, so its leaner than you like. solution get it tuned with the safest boost you can run at the correct setting, ie: don't have hi or low, or if you do, tune for both, which means more $$$

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i will simply get a tune for max boost, which will be free of charge as long as nothing else is wrong...

i am running a walbro intank pump, never had a problem with it before and it has easily made almost 240rwkw in the same car.

running a stock FPR

so i'm guessing the ebc is simply bringing the whole curve over (so more boost earlier than it was before) and now where there used to be fuel there isnt, because the curve has moved over from ebc. ?

as for misfire - i found lots of green goopy shit on a couple inj plugs so clean them up or possibly replace.

thanks

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
check afrs once solve all your issues, maybe get a retune\check.

has the timing been moved?

not a fan of powerfc...

why not? any other ecu would have done the same thing.

he tuned for a given level of airflow, then adding in more air, so it moved the max load points on the map.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

a new fuel filter can make it run a bit leaner. if the old filter wasn't very dirty, but had done a bit of work it probably didn't filter as well as it should and let more fuel through than in filtered. then when you put the new filter in it is a bit more restrictive.

amosite Proficient

amosite

Posted
Posted
well sorta thinking this... can it make that much of a difference, i have noticed a LOT more flutter with the new pod, and can hear the air sucking in.

also was thinking that it may get more fuel if old fuel filter was blocked...

If your car was tuned in the 12's and is now running in the 14's its running LEAN!

I.e you need a retune.

If your intake is flowing more air, but the tune remains the same it will run leaner

as the PFC doesnt compensate (unless tuned otherwise)

As with any intake, you will get increased induction noise which also means a louder

BOV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...