Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing The Guts Of A Standard Catalytic Convertor

mspek

By mspek,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mspek Enthusiast

mspek

Posted
Posted

This is the question that current faces me. I have a custom 3inch exhaust system end-to-end, & also a 'complianced' cat which sits in between. Do I get a 'hi-flow'cat? or do DIY using broom stick method to remove the guts of the cat!!

I am interested in hearing people that have done this? Did you experience or notice and problems after? I note 1 persons previous comments on backfiring..

People have told me that if I were to change my cat, to hi-flow, I would notice a big difference in power. Wouldnt removing the guts of the cat make this the ultimate 'hi-flow'.

I note that many people have bought either the Catco or MetalCat during previous group buys - so I am sure there would be interest out there?

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted

It's highly illegal and quite dangerous to remove the internals of a cat.

Cats are designed to flow.

If you gut the cat using the method you have suggested, it will interupt the flow, not increase it.

However, if you would like to find out first hand, and risk a massive fine, as well as risking inhaling the carcinogens contained inside the cat, then by all means go for it.

:laugh:

Unless it's a track car, get a proper high flow cat.

race_snooze Grand Master

race_snooze

Posted
Posted

there has been a few threads on this.. some even went as far as to dyno the difference from highflow cat to a straight through to busted out cat, the best was a pipe (straight through) then the highflow then the busted out cat.

mspek Enthusiast

mspek

Posted
  • Author
Posted
there has been a few threads on this.. some even went as far as to dyno the difference from highflow cat to a straight through to busted out cat, the best was a pipe (straight through) then the highflow then the busted out cat.

I have looked everywhere for the link - could you please tell me where I can get this information you mention.

greatly appreciated.

RB20_ZED Collaborator

RB20_ZED

Posted
Posted

i remember reading a very detailed thread on this - basically u dont want to do it coz its a crazy $10000 max fine or something like that...

and cops can tell by tapping on the cat if its hollow or not...

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted (edited)
there has been a few threads on this.. some even went as far as to dyno the difference from highflow cat to a straight through to busted out cat, the best was a pipe (straight through) then the highflow then the busted out cat.

This makes sense because the compliance cat probably had a 2.5in inlet and outlet. The two step changes in cross section where it bolts up to the rest of the system will hurt flow, as turbulence is created up and downstream of the section change.

The original poster should bite the bullet and get the catco or metalcat. Better performance, no fines, and wont screw up the environment. Reaming the cat is the way of the bogon....you're better than that.

Rgs,

Kot

Edited by MrKotter
Fugi Community Regular

Fugi

Posted
Posted

I recently went to get a tune and found out my cat was restricting my power i then asked "could you just gut it" the mechanic then told me that they normaly put a straight pipe right through..(didnt reccomend it)

long story short. he gutted it for me and got an extra 5kw out of it.. but its just a temp thing im recivein my new 3" highflow tomoz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...