Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 94 gts25t r33 skyline, it says its got about 56k on the clock, which i somehow find hard to beleive for a vehicle nearly 10 years old, the car seems to run fine, with the only thing replaced according to the car yard i bought it from being the clutch, and a few other things so it was eligable for complience.

1. My question is, how can I determine the real amount of kilometres it has driven? someone mentioned a compression test on the cylinders? ( I COULD BE QUITE WRONG HERE )

2. It has a silver sticker on the engine with the nissan text, logo, some writing in japanese, and down the bottom a very clear 100,000km's written. Does this mean this car has had a 100k service????? I hope this isn't the case although I wouldn't be too suprised :).. The car didn't have service history, so it is hard for me to tell what the deal is, it's running okay I say again, but I'd just like to know roughly what these things are..

:P

Cheers

comp test always good to see how teh engine is regarless of indicated kms

silver sticker is teh timing belt replacement km sticker...........

If that belt was put on in OZ during compliance just for maybe...

if put on in Japan shes been wound back

it definately isnt from teh factory

you buy a timing belt you get the sticker

I import alot of front cuts only the 80k kms plus ones have them

seeing teh residue on a sticker thats been removed is a good indicator you've been dialed back also

Thanks MrMayhem.

Is it illegal for people to sell cars claiming certain kms clocked in, knowing that the clock has been wound back? from a car yard eg: toyota dealer, selling this as a used vehicle. I have a feeling it would be breaching some agreement maybe even just within thewarranty I have with the dealer. Any ideas what the deal is with the law regarding this, thanks in advance.

Cheers

as far as i know, that silver sticker says in jap 'replace timing belt at 100,000km and comes factory. when it is replaced, it is written on or near the sticker, indicating the exact km when it was changed. my skyline has the sticker and its done 75k km.

pic attached, looks like another sticker has been stuck next to the factory one, and written on.

Is it illegal for people to sell cars claiming certain kms clocked in, knowing that the clock has been wound back?

Dont know but not a very ethical way to be running a business.

When i picked up my R32 a couple of years ago, their was a grey R32 in the same yard. Had adjustable control arms, and Teins and susp work up the bazoo, exactly what i wanted.

It even had less kms then the silver one i ended up buying. The silver was a nicer looking car, and essentially stock, but hey i had never owned a nice looking ride so didnt care, my heart wanted the grey one.

Imagine my surpirse when the car yard owner said dont buy the grey one, theres no way the kms are original and the silver car is the one to have... and i might add he was right the car has been great.

There isnt much Aus dealers can do when they are wound back in Japan, except do as this individual did and bring it to the buyers attention.

As for timing belts, well i change it and a few other things when i buy a car, kind of like tranferring the rego. You never know.

  • 10 months later...

We'll here's my timing belt sticker and it looks like it was changed in Japan @ 95017km on the 8th month of the year H12 (2000)

The belts on the fan and the alternator look pretty new. But I think I have to squeeze under the car to inspect the timing belt don't I?

it definately isnt from teh factory

you buy a timing belt you get the sticker  

Maybe you do.. but it also comes from the factory.. as every GTS-T i have seen has one on there. They will generally write the km it has been changed in pen or the like if it has been changed - like HappyPuppy's pic shows.

Km on a skyline are largely irrelevent, and it disspoints me to see buyers say things like "oh I'm looking for a skyline with 60,000km, yours is 90,000km and not worth looking at". These are not local cars people!! Most of the winding back has been in japan, where its actually illegal also.

If you could find *evidence* that a local dealer did it, you could get them in trouble - getting that would be nigh on impossible, and most of the time its been done way before it gets into local hands. Most dealers know that, and like Roy says, some will even be honest about it. Likewise you can simply change the whole instrument cluster (an 30minute job) and you'd be none the wiser.

Glenmcrae: A compression will only give you a bit of a general indication of the internal strength left in the engine. It will not tell you km at all, as compression could be way down on a car with a genuine 60,000km or fine at 200,000km.. all on how the car has been treated. More modifications will often mean that the engine compression may be otherwise worn premeturely. Often more boost = more pressure on the pistons, rings, head gasket, valves springs, etc and may result in reduced compression over time.

The only real check is to just go on visuals such as paint fade, seat wear, steering wheel, gearboot and handbrake boot wear, carpet wear, and the number of small scratches, etc -- in the end it doesn't really matter. If the car is running well, looks good, and everything else, the km are the last thing you should worry about. .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...