Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What I do, is when I get out of the car, instead of just going ahead and touching the metal and getting zapped, I hold the key near the key hole. You see a little spark, and you don't get zapped.

For you to get zapped, the point of contact with the metal needs to be a part of you.

I was told the tyres rotate and pick up charges or something like that and that was the cause.

Maybe it is my clothes....I'll try cotton tommorrow and see if this works.

Also, this looks like it happens to every-one then? :rofl:

When you open the door, keep a hold of it (As if you would if another car was parked closely) but hold on to the END of the door, so that you're touching metal, then stick your foot on the ground. No more zappy...

I have to get back into this habit...

Both my cars have earth straps (Can't see them though) so I got out of the habit, and now I get booted in every friends car!

So the answer would be to get a rubber strap :)

Surely we can give an electrical discharge circuit to the front seat so we don't pick up this static....

Is the solution that easy though?

Think....your not just on here to check other peoples avatars are you? :)

Could you run a rubber strap from some part on the chassis onto one of the tyes? They're grounded, and you wouldn't be able to see the strap if you positioned it well

Good thinking there...except it does not have to be on the tyre all the time ......just when you open the door.

Maybe a pulley type ...simple set up that operates on a wire connected to a rubber?

Maybe to much over-kill.....

STILL LOOKING. :P

If we come up with an idea...we will patent it and make lots of money :D

Something i saw other day on youtube was quite disturbing, involved static electricity a car and a petrol bowser.

Overkill is great, as long as people buy it.

Could just set up a servo to automatically reset itself to off position (which would be facing down, at the tyre) whenever the power is cut to it, my old remote control car used to do this once turned off.

Something i saw other day on youtube was quite disturbing, involved static electricity a car and a petrol bowser.

Overkill is great, as long as people buy it.

Could just set up a servo to automatically reset itself to off position (which would be facing down, at the tyre) whenever the power is cut to it, my old remote control car used to do this once turned off.

The only trouble would be for a Turbo Timer....It would have to be when the door is opened.

:P

We are getting some where :sorcerer: :sorcerer: :sorcerer:

The factor is, the type of rubbers in the tyre doesn't allow the car to discharge at all.

Well, actually, if you notice, it's normally the spark jumping from YOU TO the car...

This tells us, the electrons (The part of moving electricity) is moving from person, to car.

Hence, we have more electrons in us, then what the car has.

Hence, our body has more electrons in it.

What this tells us, is the car is actually insulated from earth.

Hence, we are moving electrons from the earth/us, back into the vehicle to create an equalisation

Hence, when you jump out, and make a connection, you get zapped.

BUT, if you connect to the car first, and then connect to earth, you don't feel your foot being zapped (Due to large surface area etc)

Hence, GRAB THE CAR FIRST, THEN step out.

Or, fit an earth strap. My R33 has a strap, and you can barely see it at all, unless you look under the car.

Why bother making something new and expensive, when there is a cheaper, easier alternative available.

To many Hence.....in your report MBS206.... :D

Still am not giving up...a strap looks like your driving a Camry(Not that they are bad cars) or something,

What you are saying is the electrons charge us in the car as we are driving.

When we go to exit the car without dis-charging these back to the car, we get zapped.

If this is correct why don't we have a car earth on the door handle.

Is it that simple?. ;) ....maybe not. :D .....is this the cure? :)

Or is it more simple than that? :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...