Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys got a bit of an emergency here, i have a r32 gts-t/rb20det and i have just blown out one of my rear heater hoses, I managed to get the car home and have had a look but i have no tools or a replacement hose, i was wondering if anyone on the northside(I'm in daveron park) is able to come around with a replacement hose and some tools to help me get this sorted as i have to use the car to pick our 2 kids up from school at 3pm. I can be pm'ed on the forum or text messaged on 0403606243(phone only texts no calls recieving on phone) anyone able to help would be much appreciated can throw you $20 and 6pack for the trouble if able to help.

Cheers Steve.

Hi guys got a bit of an emergency here, i have a r32 gts-t/rb20det and i have just blown out one of my rear heater hoses, I managed to get the car home and have had a look but i have no tools or a replacement hose, i was wondering if anyone on the northside(I'm in daveron park) is able to come around with a replacement hose and some tools to help me get this sorted as i have to use the car to pick our 2 kids up from school at 3pm. I can be pm'ed on the forum or text messaged on 0403606243(phone only texts no calls recieving on phone) anyone able to help would be much appreciated can throw you $20 and 6pack for the trouble if able to help.

Cheers Steve.

Steve, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the odds of someone right now sitting at home with nothing better to do, and has an RB20 rear heater hose, and can get to you and fix it for $20 plus a six pack (which I am sure wouldn't even buy you the hose itself), all within the next 2 hours is worse than one in a billion. If I were you, I would be making other plans.

The good news is, that if you can find some copper pipe about the same diameter as the inside of your heater hose, pull the other one off the heater hose off the heater core at the firewall, and join them together with the copper pipe and some clamps. I ran around 'fixed' like that in my R34 for months a few years back. You lose your car heater, but at least the car will be usable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...