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Hi guys, as the thread suggests, im looking at adding these.

Anyone changed to a lightened flywheel? Was there much difference, and is it worth the 600 or so bucks?

Also the oil cooler, Im keen on relocating the filter at the same time, as you know they suck to change! Just wondering how much a full kit would cost (adapter mounts, fittings, piping and the cooler itself)- Ive seen them for 680$ but this still seems quite pricey to me, considering when you look at all the components, it doesnt look like a lot!

Has anyone added one of these and noticed a difference in oil/engine temp when driving hard? I understand an oil cooler is not really a necessity for street use, but its a good piece of mind mod for those long high rpm hill drives!

Thanks all, NACHO

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Nacho,

I have a lightened flywheel on my OS Giken twin plate cluthc, and have a number of friends who use lightened flywheels, we all think it is worth the investment:D

Oil cooler and remote filter kits are usually very expensive, $1000+ for a Jap one. They are only really necessary if your doing track work, not for hard daily driving.

See'ya:burnout:

Lightened Flywheel: Rev210 has covered the benefits of a lightened flywheel pretty well in his "13 sec nearly stock GTST" threads, would be worth a look.

Horsepower in a box sell them for about $395 for GTST, although not as light as the jap ones. D1 Garage (in Adelaide) has a second hand Jap one on the wall and want about $300 for it, so you can get them cheaper. Also if you go to a twin plate, most will have a lightened flywheel already. Have you done a search?

Sorry, cant help with the oil cooler thing, but if you can get a cooler and a relocator for the oil filter for $680 bucks, tell me where please as this seems pretty cheap.

I used to own a Nissan bluebird with the L20 B motor anyway I did up a 200b motor 4 it and the oil filter didnt clear the engine mounts so I got a remote oil fitlter kit it cost me $30 at the time 10 year ago.

Are these kits somewhat different to the kits for 300 + $ today? they use a z9 filter fitting wich our skylines also use.

when I decided that I wanted a cooler 4 it I just got an auto tranny cooler and plumed it in. Why dosnt any body use these on there skylines? I dont see a difference between them and the expensive ones.

..the oil filter relocation kits are cheap - its the oil cooler cores that are expensive!!

I was thinking of using a tranny cooler for an engine oil cooler and was told not to as they arent designed for cooling engine oil. Not sure exactly why (probably too much internal resistance for the engine oil?) but if you compare a normal tranny cooler with a proper engine oil cooler they are nothing alike?

rev,

Did you do the flywheel upgrade on its own, or did you fit your upgraded clutch & flywheel at the same time? Is it possible the new improved clutch could've helped the ET drop slightly at the same time?

Originally posted by b005t

rev210, is it a bitch to drive in stop start / general slow driving with the new flywheel? Whens the best time to put the flywheel in? same time as new clutch?

re install :at the same time as the clutch will save you some labour cost. It takes 5min more to do than just the clutch change.

re Drivabillity : It is so close to stock driving around town you wont notice. The clutch will have a bigger impact on the low speed driving. My tip is not to get too heavy a pressure plate (a tiny bit more pressure than stock is all thats needed). Multi plate clutches should be avoided if you don't have enourmous power.

The light flywheel (4.8kg) is a better mod than a front mount intercooler by a long way on the stock turbo.

I bought the flywheel from taka's.

The clutch I got from Ross at autoclutch. $330 for just the clutch plate ( I used the stock pressure plate ).

Mat,

the flywheel got me the time as the stock clutch died 'after' the 13.8 (which the clutch was ok on).

Originally posted by rev210

Mat,

the flywheel got me the time as the stock clutch died 'after' the 13.8 (which the clutch was ok on).

Dave,

I was thinking maybe your stock clutch was just starting to give up the ghost (not noticeable at the time of the 13.8) & upon upgrading the new clutch gave that little extra each shift.

I should've gone with a light weight flywheel. Oh well, next time.

Hi guys, the oil cooler and remoter filter kits seem to work out like this;

$125 for the block adaptor

$125 for the remote filter mount

$325 for the oil cooler

$150 for the braided stainless steel, teflon coated hoses

$175 for the alloy hose fittings

Sometimes the individual prices are a little different, but it always ends up around $900 total.

The problem with using power steering coolers for engine oil is flow, pressure and temperature. They are simply not designed to handle all three of these at the levels you find engine oil.

Hope that helps.

Originally posted by rev210

nah the stock clutch was just 'glazed' there was still plenty of material on it just cooked.  

The stock unit gripped fine it was the burnouts that killed it a few runs after the 13.8

*Homer voice* - Mmmmm burnouts :burnout:

My clutch was a little more than glazed. What little was left of the friction material was well fried!

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