Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im contemplating buying a townhouse as an investment property, and it looks as though the stagea may have to go if i am to attain the loan i want. Im still fighting myself as to whether to sell it or not but I figure I might aswell find out what its worth.

1998 Nissan Stagea 25t rs four “s” MANUAL

Performance Mods: Split Dump/Front Pipe, CATCO High Flow Cat, Blitz NUR Spec Cat Back, Front Mount Intercooler, K&N Panel Filter, Apexi Power FC (with "Secret Squirrel Tweak"), Walbro Fuel Pump, Cushion Button Clutch, GFB Stealth FX BOV.

Tune: Unique Autosports

Power: 200.9kw At The Wheels

Work Meister S2R 18”x9” wheels with kuhmo ecsta tyres with good tread.

RHINO RAv2 car alarm with 3 point immobiliser.

plus it has a pioneer mp3 cd player, two 12" fusion powerplant subs and an 800W RMS monoblock amp, stereo puts out 136.8 dB.

i have just ordered a cushion button clutch from Unique Autosports, which retails for $1150. which will be fitted before it is sold.

The car is also getting resprayed in the very near future through insurance, as it was sprayed with rocks, at which time the nismo sideskirts will be fitted.

It has 119,000 km on the clock runs motul engine oil and redline gearbox oil, it purrs like a kitten.

I would also be interested in a trade plus cash adjustment for a car worth between $2000 and $5000 that is reliable and good on fuel.

It would be a regrettable sale if I do sell it but I have enjoyed every moment of ownership with the stagea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144351-what-is-my-stagea-worth/
Share on other sites

Andy you are an idiot!

No offence,

I know what you are going through, i want to buy a house at the end of next year so unless i really save hard it wont happen but i refuse to sell the stag.

As i know how much i regret getting rid of the onevia, so i wont do it a second time

Hi Andy,

As an avid price watcher I know that you will get burned badly on the mods (ask Jay) anything you can take off or out of the car and return it to stock the better off you will be. Sell the parts off at a reasonable loss which will be much better than including them with the car.

Leave the PFC in there though, I would want that and see the value in paying for that as it adds so much to the car. Consider what you could remove and sell and what you don't mind leaving on it them ask yourself how much you need to get for it. It is a rare gem to be sure but still a little obscure at the same time narrowing the market a little.

I might be way off and someone might jump on you with 30 large but then again R33 GTR's seem to be a dime a dozen at 25k...

Just my thoughts.

Cheers

Luke

Andy, I think that Simon is right, $21,000. Nobody pays for mods. Why respray it. It's just more money down the drain. Better sell it for a little less and let someone else spray it. What about taking a cheap Stag on it, then at least you'll still have one, might be able to use your mods and free up a few grand all at the same time.

Confucius say

NEVER sell a Stagea to buy a house.

Sell the house to buy a Stagea.

Confucius should have said "Sell Stagea, don't buy house buy business, business will buy you house and another Stagea"

I'd say it is worth at least $20k, which is what I think mine is about worth, but I need to sell mine for the same reason you are looking at selling yours, but I need to cover the loan, and at the moment that payout figure is what I need to sell it for, so I really doubt it will sell quickly.

But honestly folks, how many Manuals are there in the country?

Yeah sounds about right. I hope to find a buyer ~$25k mark and hopefully by the $20k mark, but it'll only get there when I make repayments, but good luck with the sale, I still have a good 11mths till I will be really looking for a buyer, so no rush for me :laugh:

I think the crystal would bring in the punters if there is a photo with any ad, but make sure the paint is matchable and repairable (re touch ups) or it will lose its appeal pretty quickly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...