Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just installed a new turbo on my RB20. the latest problem is a slight oil leak i cant get rid of, coming from the oil feed on the turbo side. iv tried new washers and material washers. And it still leaks so slightly. The bolt is a banjo bolt.. has any 1 had this problem before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145010-turbo-oil-feed-leak/
Share on other sites

what type of turbo did you install? is it oil cooled only?

if so the oil restrictor needs to be changed as ball bearing units need less oil than plain/journal/oil cooled only, so you need to adjust the restrictor

just installed a new turbo on my RB20. the latest problem is a slight oil leak i cant get rid of, coming from the oil feed on the turbo side. iv tried new washers and material washers. And it still leaks so slightly. The bolt is a banjo bolt.. has any 1 had this problem before?

Other people have wrote on this forum that it needs to be super tight, so use a breaka bar and use plenty of leverage and tighten the sh1t out of it.

Do a search on anneal, you may come up with something.

Essentially you use a gas torch or your mum's gas stove to heat your copper washers to a cherry red colour and then drop them in cold water.

I'll see if I can find my diatribe on this topic and add a link.

Go here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=anneal

Also I agree with Grigor, you use a breaker bar and you risk stripping the thread in your turbo housing, then you will be up that creek and in that barbed wire canoe and not a paddle in sight!!!!!!

  • 13 years later...

Related topic but I'm not using banjo bolts, using stainless steel 7/16 -24 inverted flare.

I know this is pretty basic but im having trouble sealing the turbo oil feed fitting 100%, its not leaking leaking but after a drive there is a small amount of oil around the fitting half a drop or less you can see slight discoloring.20201004_145114.jpg.db3939fc2e7db3c3dd4add355d61d5f9.jpg

First time, I installed it was worse the fitting leaked slighty so removed and found a small bit of grit in the thread cleaned and reinstalled was much better. After a few drives i found again a smaller amount of oil around the fitting, this time removed cleaned and reinstalled a little bit tighter then before and it was much better but again a very slight amount of oil (less then before) (above pic) around the fitting.

has anyone else had trouble installing a stainless steel  7/16 -24 inverted flare.

How tight are you suppose to tighten the fitting?

Or anything else i can try?

 

Edited by dyl33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...