Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone checked this out? I am sure it will soon be talked about. What do you think? What about the V6 and Infinity badge............ where is the leather?

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=8763

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145139-stagea-impul-535w/
Share on other sites

The seats look very wide - not a great deal of lateral support around corners. I find i slide around a lot in mine - dunno how id go in those bad boys.

Chrome badge on wheel looks nice, but thats it.

I reakon it looks fantastic id buy it in a second

Hi Guys

You might have missed the most important part..... In the jspac ad, it says

2002 Nissan Stagea Impul 535W

Built in Nov 2002 2500cc engine

There is no mention of a turbo and according to the SEVS register it aint allowed in.

Variants: 2WD: 350RX,350RX AXIS, 350RX AXIS S, 300RX. 4WD: 350RX FOUR, AR-X FOUR, 350RX FOUR AXIS, 350RX FOUR AXIX S, 250T RX FOUR.

Schedule 2 Conditions

Only vehicles with the features listed below satisfy this entry (There were other features).

Engine: Vehicle variants fitted with VQ25DD engines are not eligible.

Oh well, just another potential problem for unwary newbie! :ninja:

Oh well, just another potential problem for unwary newbie! :)

Not every car on J-spec is for Australia dude

They sell alot to Canada and the rest of the world

It is a amazing thing the internet!

If it is eligible (for Australia), they will inform you when you inquire.

damn it but anyway if its full genuine impul if any fanatics get it into the country it will be even more rare than a lambo!! BTW before i bought my car i saw on carsales there was one M35 for sale with aussie plate. So im guessing that the M35 is avail for compliance. damn i think im saving up again ermm for the next stagea?!

I thought the 2.5L only came with a turbo...I must've been mistaken...

I do like the look of it from the outside :P

I could also live with the interior, but I prefer our stagea interior - not as modern, but IMO better looking. :wave:

If only they fixed the rear taillights - then the new stag would look perfect...still, if someone offered me one...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...