Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

as u might know im looking for a GTR R32 but while i have been looking around ive come across a nice 1992 Twin turbo Toyota Supra. Jus wondering wot u guys think of them?

What are there performance lik compared to R32 etc etc

Edited by Adz2332
  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah, itd be a JZA80.

first things first, theyre pretty heavy mofo's, so they can be a bit boaty (2 of 3 that ive driven have had stock suspension, shocking stuff, the other had tein coilovers, massive improvement...)

they dont like to rev like the GTR's, but its much easier to make huge amounts of power from them.

theyre very comfortable on longer trips, takes a bit of effort to get in and out of, you sit in them rather then on them, if you get my meaning.

theyre thirsty, and theyre not the easiest things to drive in the wet, but all round, theyre great cars, and i doubt youll regret buying one.

The 2JZ engine was in the 1993 - onwards (the 96/97 + models came with VVTI i believe). It can be either NA or twin turbo. The main difference is the power and the weight (if you are comparing to the R32). r32 gtst has 160 kws and 290nm torque? , where as the JZA80 twin turbo has 206 and 430nm torque. But the supra weighs a lot more than the gtst. 0-100 in the supra is said to be about 5.6, where as the gtst is in the low to mid 6's.

Both engines are durable - strong internals, revvy. Supra twin turbo in manual comes with an extra gear. But down sides, supra has no space at hte back. The r32 i think has more space in the back.

EXCELLENT GUYS. Does anyone kno wot the model letters mean lik supra SZ or RZ?

if the car youre getting is an RZ or an SZ its a'93-'02 (JZA80). anything before that (to '86) is the JZA70.

afaik, RZ denotes the turbo/twin turbo models, and SZ is the non turbo.

Edited by scandyflick
if the car youre getting is an RZ or an SZ its a 93 onwards.

afaik, RZ denotes the turbo/twin turbo models, and SZ is the non turbo.

So i should be looking for a RZ 2JZ engined Supra??

I have had a look at 3 cars so far, would these figures i have be about right for each car?

1993 Supra 13.1 1/4mile 320hp standered

1989 GTR 13.0 1/4mile 280hp standered

2000 WRX 14.4 1/4mile 227hp standered

So i should be looking for a RZ 2JZ engined Supra??

I have had a look at 3 cars so far, would these figures i have be about right for each car?

1993 Supra 13.1 1/4mile 320hp standered

1989 GTR 13.0 1/4mile 280hp standered

2000 WRX 14.4 1/4mile 227hp standered

*Standard...

forget the rex. glass gearboxes arent cool.

the supra has the advantage of being newer, and being able to make power easier than the GTR.

the GTR afaik is lighter, has the advantage of AWD, and is just plain cool. :)

So i should be looking for a RZ 2JZ engined Supra??

Yup, look for a JZA80 RZ with the 6 speed manny.

Edited by scandyflick

jap spec RZ is only 280hp - but this is disputed (similar to the gtr). US and british spec RZ is at 320hp

Better to go with the RZ - should you wish to do mods to it. SZ is ok - but when it comes to mods, you are restricted imo - and installing a turbo is not as easy as it sounds (or so i hear)

jap spec RZ is only 280hp - but this is disputed (similar to the gtr). US and british spec RZ is at 320hp

not to mention they got steel wheels on the turbos... *sigh*

Edited by scandyflick

Also to mention that PARTS as in modifying parts are alot more expensive, as there isn't as big of a damand for them as there is Nissan parts!

I thought of getting a Supra before i bought my 33! I am thankful for getting the 33!

Edited by Deluxe
Also to mention that PARTS as in modifying parts are alot more expensive, as there isn't as big of a damand for them as there is Nissan parts!

but the flip side to that is that you dont need to open up the engine when you start chasing big horsepower like youd have to with a nissan engine.

but the flip side to that is that you dont need to open up the engine when you start chasing big horsepower like youd have to with a nissan engine.

But i hear nissan GTRs r hell exspensive to fix! Supras r much cheaper for every day parts? this true

try to get your hands on the special issue (i forget what number it was, but it had a pic of a blue s15 in the front) of speed magazine that gave mods for supras - that will show you roughly howmuch u can spend on mods depending on the different stages.... plus it had comparisions of the rz, gtt, s15 and rx7 as well....

just saw this while searchign for the issue of speed that had supras in it:

1291_050228_xl.jpg

But i hear nissan GTRs r hell exspensive to fix! Supras r much cheaper for every day parts? this true

any car is expensive to fix where parts are concerned - best to get one where parts are plentiful

try to get your hands on the special issue (i forget what number it was, but it had a pic of a blue s15 in the front) of speed magazine that gave mods for supras - that will show you roughly howmuch u can spend on mods depending on the different stages.... plus it had comparisions of the rz, gtt, s15 and rx7 as well....

just saw this while searchign for the issue of speed that had supras in it:

1291_050228_xl.jpg

In the comparisions of the rz, gtt, s15 and rx7 which did they believe to come out on top?

Is it a new mag will it still be instores?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...