Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got an R33 Turbs... I've rebuilt the engine and put in an Exedy clutch, etc... forgies and all the rest of it... the problem I'm having is at between 1500rpm and about 1800rpm under a bit of load, I get this nasty vibration that shakes through my car. I can feel it on my foot but not so much through the gear stick. It the same noise that you would get if you had 2-3 heat shields all loose!!

I've been told things like, timing, drive shaft needs balancing, etc.. I've checked every freakin nut and bolt and can't see anything loose!

Any ideas????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145394-weird-vibrationnoise-on-low-revs/
Share on other sites

Hi mate, I've got exactly the same thing - funnily enough I've got an exedy clutch in there as well, and searching this forum has netted a few other exedy owners who've had similar issues in the past...hmmmmm.

Wish I could definitively tell you what causes it, Nissan had a look at it for me when I had my major done last week, they agreed that it was the clutch or drivetrain, other ppl have also mentioned tailshaft specifically (not being indexed correctly or something?)......

Edited by RaseR

hhmmm..... very interesting. I can't see why our Exedy clutch's would caus this. I had everything balanced and I tourqued everything up to spec... very weird...

This is killing me here... It has to be the drivetrain, surely...

Another question for you, do you get any other weird noises that seem to be clutch or tranny related?? Like a bit of a low pitch whining noise on idle? My car runs like a dream but these noises really bug me...

If there is anybody out there who had the same problem, expecially if you have an Exedy clutch, please let me know... this is an issue and it needs to be sorted..

Hi mate,

Check this thread for other ppl experiencing the same thing:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143714

I don't have the whining noise you mention, but I do have another clutch related noise - a lovely chirping sound (sounds like a cricket!) most likely caused by either a worn thrust bearing or input shaft bearing, goes away as soon as you push the clutch in.........Why didn't the previous owner have this replaced when they did the clutch??!!?! It's like a 90c part or something ridiculous like that.

...Hope someone comes up with a solution!

Edited by RaseR

Hi again,

thanks, I'll check it out.... just quickly, you mentioned that you have that cricket noise? I also have that but I did replace my thrust bearing... it's freakin weird... would you believe that I couldn't get the input bearing out!! That's probably what it is... dunno....

if you have any luck finding out what your vibration noise is, lemme know... I'll do that same... I'm starting to think it's a balancing or timing issue....

Cheers....

Hi mate,

Check this thread for other ppl experiencing the same thing:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143714

I don't have the whining noise you mention, but I do have another clutch related noise - a lovely chirping sound (sounds like a cricket!) most likely caused by either a worn thrust bearing or input shaft bearing, goes away as soon as you push the clutch in.........Why didn't the previous owner have this replaced when they did the clutch??!!?! It's like a 90c part or something ridiculous like that.

...Hope someone comes up with a solution!

I've seen this problem with other cars before (S13 and R33 GTs-t) and both times it was because the clutch was not balanced properly and at that engine speed it would vibrate the hell out of the exhaust brackets that bolt onto the gearbox. Try removing them and see if that helps otherwise get a better clutch :P

thanks for your input mate but i think I'm about to blow your possible theory out the window because my exhaust isn't standard and doesn't actually touch or bolt to the tranny at all.

is that what your talking about?

Just trying to clarify because what you say about the clutch makes sense but if that isn't balanced properly, then where else could the vibration be coming from?

Thanks again, if you have any other ideas, let me know.. I want to solve this problem but if I'm going to drop the gearbox, then I want to make sure I'm not wasting my time... I know it's guess work... sucks...

I actually had my clutch balanced after I brought it from the same place that balanced my other parts....

I hope I've put it all back together properly and there isn't a bolt shaking loose!!! I tourqued the bolts up to spec so they should be fine....

I've seen this problem with other cars before (S13 and R33 GTs-t) and both times it was because the clutch was not balanced properly and at that engine speed it would vibrate the hell out of the exhaust brackets that bolt onto the gearbox. Try removing them and see if that helps otherwise get a better clutch :)

Strangely ive got the same prob. The lovely chirping from the clutch when in neutral and as soon as you even slightly load up the clutch it goes away. I also had the thrust bearing replaced as it was provided with the new clutch/pressure plate. Anything under 2k revs in 3rd gear provides the vibration, but not sure if thats just the engine having to much load on it, or the diff as i have a standard diff which clunks at low speed and can make the car 'hop' if the weight shifts front to rear. Im thinking for me either diff rebuild/new 1.5way or new clutch nismo/excedy. Either way my final 250rwkw power goal will be better served with these other mods i guess.

cheers

Evil

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

An update, I took my car into a workshop to get some new tranny oil put in.. It seems to have made the vibration a little bit better but not much.

The guys there seem to think it's coming from inside the transmission. My tranny is old and they said something about the bearings needing replacing so I'm now looking for a good tranny, hopefully from an R34!

I will have to find out if they are compatible. Does anybody know if they are???

Strangely ive got the same prob. The lovely chirping from the clutch when in neutral and as soon as you even slightly load up the clutch it goes away. I also had the thrust bearing replaced as it was provided with the new clutch/pressure plate. Anything under 2k revs in 3rd gear provides the vibration, but not sure if thats just the engine having to much load on it, or the diff as i have a standard diff which clunks at low speed and can make the car 'hop' if the weight shifts front to rear. Im thinking for me either diff rebuild/new 1.5way or new clutch nismo/excedy. Either way my final 250rwkw power goal will be better served with these other mods i guess.

cheers

Evil

  • 5 months later...

Just came across this thread in doing a search..

I have the exact same problem as described...

R33 Series 2 RB25DET with 5 speed

second gear at low speed acelerating 1800 - 2000 revs.

I'm unsure wether its standard or heavy duty, feels light & very easy to drive in trafic.

Has anyone on this post found their solution? Its bloody annoying!

Would love to know.

Cheers

Travis

i have an aftermarket single plate clutch and i get the noise too...

(but its barely noticeable, i.e. only when i'm in the driveway next to a brick wall)

put my foot on the clutch and it goes

i have an aftermarket single plate clutch and i get the noise too...

(but its barely noticeable, i.e. only when i'm in the driveway next to a brick wall)

put my foot on the clutch and it goes

thats not the noise we are talking about...

its a full on shudder between 1500-2000rpm while accelerating

full-on shudder sounds like tailshaft issues.

mine sounds like bearings whirring if you try it from too low revs. RB's aren't designed for high load at low revs. get a diesel.

you are all driving in too high a gear, like bimbos who crawl up hills in 4th with their engine pinging its tits off. change down.

Not sure if its the same thing,

im in 1st gear, rev to about 1000-1500rpm and slowly release clutch just above friction point. Car starts to wobble feels like left/right and feels like its going to stall but revs are at 1000+ let go more of clutch and accel and the wobbleness goes away.

Spoke to a gearbox/clutch specialist, said that the flywheel could be out of balance.

Does my problem sound anything similar to yours?

thats not the noise we are talking about...

its a full on shudder between 1500-2000rpm while accelerating

yeah, i know... replying to this...

I don't have the whining noise you mention, but I do have another clutch related noise - a lovely chirping sound (sounds like a cricket!) most likely caused by either a worn thrust bearing or input shaft bearing, goes away as soon as you push the clutch in

:D

  • 9 years later...

hi just came across this thread. ive just fixed this issue.. same deal replaced clutch went an extreme single plate button DSB type clutch and had this annoying vibration. I'm a mechanic myself and didn't want to believe that a bras would generate this bit of virbration. luckily for me I have a 4 post hoist at work so threw it up and had a work mate load it up and found my passenger engine mount had broken as well as my driver side had horribly sagged threw 2 new engine mounts in and whala BEAUTIFUL!!! also added an engine steady dampner bar to help prolong the life of the mounts as well direct the engines tourque to the drive line a bit better 100% worth the $$.. well this fixed my issue so perhaps its something you guys should look at good luck =)

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...