Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and Ian, you didn't want those tyres back did you?

They will be wearing well now... chirp chirp :)

Nah :) Glad you got some fun out of them!

I'd be interested to here from the guys with the stagea series 2 triptronic gearbox (if they install one of these) as in my R34 (which is 200kg lighter than my manual stagea) I have no trouble with it changing gears - so I don't know why the stagea version would be too slow..

Ian

I'd be interested to here from the guys with the stagea series 2 triptronic gearbox (if they install one of these) as in my R34 (which is 200kg lighter than my manual stagea) I have no trouble with it changing gears - so I don't know why the stagea version would be too slow..

Ian

It probably depends how picky one is about how long it takes to change gears. I have no doubt there is no difference between r34's and s2 stageas as far as this goes. Its a matter of what you are used to and maybe how the transmission has been treated etc.

In my case the trans would change gears without any trouble at all but changing from 1st to 2nd at high revs would take a bit longer. That was my reason for getting the shift kit and I'm very happy with it now. Shifts are very close to being instantaneous.

However there is no "fault" with stock s2 stagea tiptronic gearboxes as such. I just prefer the quicker, sharper shift.

Anyone living in SA, dont bother fitting it yourself - just take your car into MV Automatics in blackwood. I paid $440 to have it fully installed by them. I just left my car there for the day. That price also includes a transmission service (fluid replacement) so its definitely good value. :(

On the other hand, if you're happy with the speed and quality of your shifts then there's probably no need for a shift kit.

Yep, could be that I'm older and don't need the fast changes anymore.. :thumbsup:

In the R34 the down shifts are almost instant, the upshifts take about .5 sec. But with the range of the engine torque I just don't notice given my normal driving...

It probably also helps that the R34 is 200kg lighter than the RS4S - and that is noticable as even though they have the same engine/turbo/intercooler the R34 seems more snappy than the stagea (even though it is a manual) as long as it isn't wet (where the R34 back wheels will just spin so easly if I turn traction control off.. :laugh: ...

I have had a shift kit fitted by a motorsport workshop in Brisbane. It certainly does make gear changes a lot quicker 1-2nd churp at only half throttel. I put it in for use at the track more for the down shift than anything elce. But it has started to play up when changing down from 4th to 3rd it grabs 3rd then releases grabs then releases. It does this until you drop down to about 70K. I have had it back to them but they don't know why it is doing it. If it is left in drive it seems to work ok up and down the gears. I was also told not to be in 4th under 80K is this right or are they blowing hot air up my A##.

Anyone living in SA, dont bother fitting it yourself - just take your car into MV Automatics in blackwood. I paid $440 to have it fully installed by them. I just left my car there for the day. That price also includes a transmission service (fluid replacement) so its definitely good value. :(

On the other hand, if you're happy with the speed and quality of your shifts then there's probably no need for a shift kit.

Sounds pretty good mate, i might have a chat to the fellas at MV Automatics next time i'm down that way. Been considering this upgrade for a while now.

I was also told not to be in 4th under 80K is this right or are they blowing hot air up my A##.

Sounds like they think your Stagea is a VN Dunnydoor. :P

The VN's would prematurely burn out their trans (as word has it from when they were cabs) when running around the city in overdrive as the auto would change in to it too early.

-------------

Alex.. I've watched your vids on youtube and it looks/sounds as if its flaring a touch on the 2nd to third change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...