Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Master of Disaster

dude the power curve looks a bit too much like a roller coaster, did the dyno operator back off the throttle at about 115kms??!

You should be able to iron out all those dips! Doesnt look very linear! How does it drive?

I dunno about the heat ranges, but im using Iridiums, gapped to 0.8, which seems to be accepted as the ideal gap. (from a test done in a mag). My old plugs started missing heaps, i pulled them out and the gap was 1.1, which didnt work at all. 0.8 saw the return of smooth clean power.

Cheers, MASTER

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14609-spark-plugs/#findComment-296057
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Master of Disaster

dude the power curve looks a bit too much like a roller coaster, did the dyno operator back off the throttle at about 115kms??!

You should be able to iron out all those dips!  Doesnt look very linear!  How does it drive?

I dunno about the heat ranges, but im using Iridiums, gapped to 0.8, which seems to be accepted as the ideal gap. (from a test done in a mag).  My old plugs started missing heaps, i pulled them out and the gap was 1.1, which didnt work at all.  0.8 saw the return of smooth clean power.

Cheers, MASTER

That up and down is the "miss" hopefully just due to the spark plugs.... it seems to drive fine on the road....

I haven't replaced the spark plugs since I got the car from japan and therefore they haven't been regapped to run higher boost...

That is why the curve looks like a coke bottle :):P

Where do I buy good plugs from? I.e HKS or Iridiums?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14609-spark-plugs/#findComment-297772
Share on other sites

could have a look on the net for some good sights that sell quality spark plugs. or go down to repco, autobarn, ect. tell what you got and shouldnt be a problem.

i am up for a change in timing belt and plugs and stuff. going to try some ones from ngk i think with 4 contacts. see how i go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14609-spark-plugs/#findComment-302116
Share on other sites

Iridiums and platinums do not offer any better spark over copper. In fact, the copper plugs are better conductors and offer a better spark. Only think is they dont last as long, which is a good thing on a tuned high performance car, as you would want new plugs at least every 20,000Km.

The Iridiums and platinums till have a copper core anyhow, but have a thin layer coating the core. They shouldn't be re-gapped b/c their tips can be easily scratched, thus turning them into $20 copper plugs as oppossed to $3 copper plugs.

Try some NGK copper plugs, they will work just as well, if not better for a fraction of the price.

The plug you need depends on your driving habbits....

If you drive like a grandma most of the time, NGK BCPR5E or (BCRP5E-11)

If you take it on the track, or thrash it quite often, go for the same in a 6 heat range, so BCPR6E (-11)

Whatever you end up getting, regap them to 0.7. Then make sure you tuner advances your timing to past the 20degree mark (as long as their is no knocking, if there is then he should retard the timing to a safe level). This should help make that power curve look a little more linear. You will never fully get rid of the problem unless you get aftermarket management, as it is an issue with your ignition timing curve on the stock ECU. Boost + stock ECU + VCT = miss at 5000 rpm!

Zahos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14609-spark-plugs/#findComment-303313
Share on other sites

for a larger turbo, a heat range of 7 is good, but for the satandard turbo, 5 is good, or 6 if u are around the 180kw mark. Anything less on an R33 with standard turbo, and you will definately see problems at the 5000rpm mark.

I had 7's in mine with 12psi boost, and for the 1st 2 weeks it was fine. After that they soon fouled easily, so I went down to 6. Because I drive it to work, and dont often thrash it, they fouled after a while too. I've had 5's in there for 3 months now, and I have had no issues...

In DREMEN's case I wouldn't go past a heat range of 6...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14609-spark-plugs/#findComment-303714
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...