Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas And Steering.


siiick
 Share

Recommended Posts

It really helps turn in, and stability on sweeping corners. I am not using the car for drifting, so Id like to continue to use it. Really comes down to driver preference, And Id like to see how far I can excel with the Hicas. Ive driven Non hicas cars my whole life, And Im liking the technology.

Please dont whore this thread. Lets keep discussions on track.

ahahah PUN!!!..

yeah fair enough but i dnt need a computer to enhance my driving skills.. oh wait.. quote F+F TD.

"i dnt need a computer to tell me about my throttle response" lol makes no sense

problem is its really delayed.well the hydraulic ones are.. i havent driven enough electronic ones on edge to differentiate between hydo and elec hicas. but m still not a fan. bit like attessa comes in a bit late in most cases.

most times the rear would wriggle mid corner as it kicked in late on the GTR and i would have to compensate with the wheel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Time to Dig up an old thread.

As you may have read the issue was off and on randomly last year during this thread. since then has became a full time issue.

We been trying to solve it in another thread here

to no avail so far. The hicas lockbar is starting to look more and more promising. Although still If i can I would love to fix it.

Im after anyone that can lend me a Hicas computer from a R33 that I can test with.

Also if anyone knows , is there any difference between s1 & s2 or -Alsd models in reference to the hicas ecu itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

installing a lockbar wont help the power steering issue

when I installed my lockbar I figured I didn't need the HICAS electronics at all so unplugged the HICAS ECU and the power steering disappeared - plugged back in and all back to normal

Dale, I'd say it's a fuse or the HICAS ECU itself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey warick, yea that thought did occur to me, that when / even if unplugged or disabled, the solnoid in the Powersteering will still be shut off. therefore not solving the ps issue.

Ive checked all the Hicas fuses (reading from the Panel Scematics) and the fuses are fine, is there a way to over-ride the Solnoid disabling the power steering?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With my 33 gtr it had the bum wiggle thing intermittently occuring when driving along. i had an idea it was the hicas system so i removed it and replaced with a lock bar recently. i have power steering still, but the hicas ecu is still in the rear under the parcelshelf although i havent checked all the fuses in the rear etc. im also running a vipec aftermarket ecu aswell with no afm's. i still seem to be having a problem with steering wheel seeming to hydraulically or electrically steering itself suddenly left then right, it sort of feels like when a car is tracking to the potholes in the road but its not that. it still doing this with hicas removed.also it feels like the steering wheel is slightly to the left of centre when driving u put it straight then it heads back towards that again. i was wondering if it could be a power steering issue (i.e. air in the system) also i noticed that the car has a series 3 gtr wheel on it, would this have any affect, and how can i tell if the steering wheel sensor is playing up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With my 33 gtr it had the bum wiggle thing intermittently occurring when driving along. i had an idea it was the hicas system so i removed it and replaced with a lock bar recently. i have power steering still, but the hicas ecu is still in the rear under the parcel shelf although i haven't checked all the fuses in the rear etc. im also running a vipec after market ecu as well with no afm's. i still seem to be having a problem with steering wheel seeming to hydraulically or electrically steering itself suddenly left then right, it sort of feels like when a car is tracking to the potholes in the road but its not that. it still doing this with hicas removed.also it feels like the steering wheel is slightly to the left of center when driving u put it straight then it heads back towards that again. i was wondering if it could be a power steering issue (i.e. air in the system) also i noticed that the car has a series 3 gtr wheel on it, would this have any affect, and how can i tell if the steering wheel sensor is playing up?

sounds like your front left control arm bushes are gone. like mine :blink:, hicas does not move ur steering wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds like your front left control arm bushes are gone. like mine :), hicas does not move ur steering wheel.

yeah very well could be, im replacing with new camber/castor adjustables anyway soon so not too worried about it, but your probably right there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...