Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

today i got a 3inch cat back exhaust fitted (with a 3inch cat) its got a centre resonator and a muffler at the rear. it sounds like crap!! it drones that bad it causes a vibration through the whole car!! worst thing is when u get the revs up its not much louder than the stock one!!! i'll be taking it straight back for them to fix, has anyone got any suggestions??

no idea about brand names. they only use quality stuff ive used them b4, they just dont get many guys with RB engines come in and say "im not worried about big power i just want a good note with no drone".

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have no bonnet insulation, all I hear when I'm thrashing is the motor and the turbo... I want an exhaust that i can only hear at high revs, dont even want background noise... the only external noise i get on the freeway is the tires, and I want too keep it that way.

-Ryan

I had exactly the same problem with drone due to a resonator.

Basically with the wagon, resonator=drone.

I had my resonator replaced with a second muffler and it fixed it up very nice :rolleyes:

Its not super quiet but also not very loud and not that noticeable when cruising.

I know what you mean by loud - I had to wait a whole long weekend before getting the resonator changed over so for the whole weekend I kept thinking everyone around was gonna be looking at me cos my car was too loud. It was painful.

So yeah, definitely 2 mufflers, and that should sort it out. Both mufflers are straight through so there's no restriction. You'll notice the difference straight away.

I've done 2 interstate trips with my new exhaust and its not a problem at all for noise or drone. :P

Of course get a stainless steel ones. It might be more expensive but it in the long run its well worth it.. .

Our JZX100 forum got suspended today for some reason - I have no idea why as I am just an average joe member - so pardon me switching brands, but the question [answer] is probably the same:

I just sourced a 3" Metalcat, a Lukey race centre/centre and an import/offset race for my 98 JZX100 and hope to make some final decisions in the next few days about tube. What are the advantages of stainless over mild steel? Given I cannot find an exhaust shop that can bend stainless, and must weld bits and pieces I just thought I would ask if mild steel is all that bad? What are the comparative life spans of each? Some say that mild steel has a less brittle tone. - any opinions?

thats whats on my car right now

stainless mani, gloria turbo, stainless outlet, mild steel kakimoto downpipe, cat eliminator, and stock catback....i think its stiffiling my power. i noticed a drop when i put it on.....

but i DID have an axle dump...right before the axle

as far as stainless VS Mild

Rust issue, is the only reason id get stainless.

stsainliess is harder to weld, but looks pretty and has a slightly differnet sound

The idea of a resonator is to cut out drone at specific frequencies/revs. For example, With my mazda i got an exhaust system with a resonator set for the rpm the car does at 60kmh and 100kmh. You'll find that normally your freer flowing, noisier exhaust that certain rpm wil drone and resonate through the car more than others. Go to your exhaust shop and let them know what RPM your car sits at when ur cruising and tell them you want that quietened. and they will give you a resonator for eg from 2200 to 2800rpm. What this did was give it a sporty note, without droning while you cruise.

Brand names typically have more research and development to create a higher flowing exhaust, without the noise of a cheap and nasty.

Either that or i got stooged into a pricey system. But it DID sound nice. Tough raspy note, sounds great throttling down, and wasnt irritating while cruising even tho it was fairly loud under the pedal. And that was just a Mazda 3.

yeah my stagea is my drift car

Im going mild steel, its easier to weld and deal with for me.

but my ideal system is a side exit straight pipe from turbo

but im in japan, and dont deal with the rough constraints you do

but im in japan, and dont deal with the rough constraints you do

So its also street driven...?

And does this mean you can send us goodies like intercoolers, injectors, mufflers, and hello kitty facewashers?

Has anyone found a down pipe that bolts streight up yet? I saw a thread a while back where poeple were having problems and needing to modify r34 or r33 ones but there was never a conclusion or word of a pipe that works streight out with no mods. nengun has one listed under the stagea search results, its listed as an r33 one so not sure, has anyone got one that bolts streight up? (series 2 manual)

By the way,thermodynamics law of the gases describes the relationship between temperature-presure-volume. thats why you get an intercooler, increase presure = increase temperature= decrease volume(higher density). add intercooler. At other end, hot, high presure gas, give area for gas to expand (high volume dump pipe) = decrease presure = decrease temperature = increase volume (lower density)

Edited by momo

i've been thinking 3" dump/front/cat, then 2.5"catback with decent muffler...

how much difference does it really make on a stock turbo car?

also, much gain found from going 3"dump/front/cat and stock catback?

-Ryan

you can tell the difference when you swap the xhaust from a std to a 3". Go at least 3" for the exhaust system. Your arse will feel the difference when driving it in terms of the power gain LOL!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
×
×
  • Create New...