Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hiya all was wondering if anyone else on here has had problems with their car developing a tendency to drift over the road surface? mine has recently developed this problem aand i suspect (after 4 wheel alignments) that the rear steering rack maybe causing it? before i got the rear camber corrected and the front caster done i t would always pull to the left a little but now it can go either way at random times, its not a drastic pull but it is enough that if you let your hand off the wheel that the next bump/ridge in the road surface will cause the car to drift across over the course of around 50-60 metres or so.

any ideas guys as it is pissing me and the wheel alignment guys off to no end, (prolly seeing as he cant charge me until he gets it right) gotta love service garuntees hahahahahaha

cheers oxford

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146911-wandering-stagea/
Share on other sites

What's your front caster setting? even caster is best for cornering,but on cambered roads,the car will follow the road camber noticeably if the caster is even. set the O/SF back half a degree and it'll track straighter when cruising around.

What other settings are you running out of interest?

Justin...

heya andy

yeah i have printed out the entire suspension thread around 80 a4 pages at work and the guys have based their settings on getting as close to the ones in the thread as possible but it still wanders

the alignment is being done at my local pedders workshop on a CORGHI brand alignment machine whether that would make any diffwerence or no i dunno. it is a new machine prolly less than 2 years old

SK offers caster kits in the Suspension Group Buy, and has settings for when you add those... Apparently you need to add a caster kit to add a sufficient amount of caster to get rid of the wandering...

Drop him a PM, and he may be able to help. Also, have a look in the Suspension Group Buy thread...

have already added a caster kit to try and bring the left hand side further to square and it hasn helped any, althouhg it was only one offset bush in the left (passenger) side so i may hafta get another offset and push the drivers side back or something??

Mine sufferes a similar thing - follows every single hole and dip and camber in the road. My old falcon you can pretty much let go of the wheels at 100kph and be good for at least 2-300m, but the stagea.... no.... Am going to try SKs camber and caster kits.

have pretty much put the same stuff as in the kits he has already and hasn really made that much of a difference unfortunately. only one that is different is the rear i have adjustable camber arms but they will be goin soon as i get the offset bushes for the rear arms

have pretty much put the same stuff as in the kits he has already and hasn really made that much of a difference unfortunately. only one that is different is the rear i have adjustable camber arms but they will be goin soon as i get the offset bushes for the rear arms

well shit... beats me then lol

If i figure out what it is, ill let you know! PS u do the same!

Ummm, it doesnt seem completely normal to me.

I dont believe my Stagea (S1 , Jan 97) suffers from what you desribe.

Doesnt wander, doesnt track offcentre, and I still havent had a wheel alignment done to it yet.

Mods: Bilstein shocks, standard springs, 360mm ride height all round (centre of wheel to arch), 17inch R34 GTT wheels with 235/45 tyres, and Whiteline 'pineapples'. Whiteline front caster kit not yet fitted.

Im honestly very happy with the handling, I mean its no Lambo but for what the Stagea is its great - as we all well know. Albeit Im a careful driver, I havent come across your described problem in my car (have with a Pulsar N15 hatch tho!!! long story....)

It'll be wear & tear on a particlar item I guess. Has you car got signs of accident damage? Have you replaced all the undercarrage bushes, etc? What condition are your tyres in? Is your current suspension old/new, installed properly? etc etc...... power steeing fluid/lines, steering rack, plenty of things to go thru.

Id had enough of the mucking around with our kittedout N15 hatch, that was a nightmare in regards to wandering characteristics and we never got it properly sorted in the end. Oh, and the 3 clutches in 20thou kms! :laugh: Was in Hot 4s tho on the backpage, so that was good for a laugh.

Best of luck with it, would be good to get different opinions from different workshops perhaps, time permitting. Maybe take out the hicas and put in the lock bar? Cant be of much help tho, sorry.

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...