Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys im in need of some help here...

My stagea has developed a shudder through the steering wheel under heavy load when launching o. It doesnt always happen, and only happens in first or 2nd gear (standard auto still).

I have noticed its more likely to happen when i have the wheel turned, say powering out of a round-a-bout.

The shudder will continue through first and second gear, if i back off and then accellerate again it dissapears.

You can really feel it through the steering wheel, it gets a really strong vibration or shudder.

I thought it might have something to do with the front drive shaft or something, but not having a clue about the attessa system or 4wd for that matter, I dont know where to start.

Has anyone else had this problem or any ideas on whats causing it?

Cheers,

Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147404-heavy-vibrations-help-me-please/
Share on other sites

Yep, I would look att the CV joints in the front drive shafts too, If it was the front drive shaft, like mine was, it wouldn't go away after backing off, or in any higher gear.

read somewhere in another post that when the solders on the AFM becomes dry and cracks...when travelling on uneven roads the connections can move about slightly causing the car to jerk or shudder...then when on a flat road the revs become stable again...might be a faulty AFM which from what i hear is very common...doubt its the cv joint because when this wears out...the shudder or noise is quite consistent and doesnt go away. Dont know how a broken atessa feels ..maybe someone who's had this experience can share more.

my car has developed this cough when idling...happens especially when hot but the car revs smoothly when driving....really buggin the shit outta me...changed and gapped plugs to 0.813mm ..so definately not that

trying to go through the process of elimination too..so next week im gonna hafta clean the AAC and solder my AFM

anyone who's had this before would really appreciate some help.

yeah its defenantly not afm.

Its in the drive for sure, just not sure where yet! im gonna sneak it into the workshop and try have a good look underneath with the hoist and see if anything is visable.

I hate it when my car isnt 110%!!!!

yeah its defenantly not afm.

Its in the drive for sure, just not sure where yet! im gonna sneak it into the workshop and try have a good look underneath with the hoist and see if anything is visable.

I hate it when my car isnt 110%!!!!

Come to think of it...my car used to do that ...always in 1st or 2nd and when under load..eg uphill ascent...always thought it was uneven road...but apparently was caused by a faulty coil ...hardly noticeable but gradually reared its ugly head...solved now with some high temp silicone.

even if ur coils arnt shot...might be worth doing ...look in the DIY threads.

  • 8 months later...

Hi peeps - I know this is an old thread and has been covered a few times but I'm concerned as my Stagea has developed exactly this vibration issue. I'm in the UK and the cars are a rarity over here so I'm trying to research this as much as possible before taking it in next week to get sorted. I've had the wheels balanced but it has not improved. I had the wheel alignment checked at the same time and they said that they set all 4 wheels parallel as per most other 4WD vehicles - but I have noticed some feathering on the front tyres since then. Was it wrong to get them aligned like that? It is in next week having a load of work done so I want them to try and sort this too. All 4 tyres are toyo proxes but the fronts are slightly less worn than the rears, could this be an issue? I've got a set of Tein SuperWagon Coilovers going on so they can have a good look around then - and I guess the suspension swap might even remove the problem anyway. Any suggestions would be really appreciated - I'll try to glean as much as I can from the other threads - but I'm not really technically minded so any 'plain english' (or plain ozzie) explainations would be great. Cheers peeps. :rofl:

Ps - I'm also having a Blitz down pipe, a GReedy Front mount fitted and the Turbo is being re-built with GT30 internals - looking forward to getting it back after!

John

I had the exact same problem all the time, for about 4 months. My front tyres were worn. I replaced them with new ones, and have not had a repeat in six months. I consider the issue fixed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
×
×
  • Create New...