Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had my GTR on the market for about a month, but someone called up today and then turned up with cash. Fair enough, it was pretty cheap ($25,500 for a good, original R33 GTR), but it had just been broken into and I hadn't yet fixed the the broken ignition lock and plastics on the dash.

The guy pretty much asked no questions.. didn't care about VIN/chassis or a REVS check, didn't check that I was actually the owner, wasn't concerned in the slightest that it was QLD rego sold in NSW.

He even told me that he'd lost his license and then drove it when he left. He wasn't concerned about the security system and didn't really seem like the type of guy who'd buy a GTR on a whim.

He turned up with $25k in cash in a lockbox.

I guess I've got the cash, and it's genuine from what I can tell and not sequential etc, but I've got a really bad feeling about this.

Is there a scam in this?

I'm half expecting either men in balaclavas at my door tonight to reclaim the cash, or to be called by the poilce to let me know my car was just used in a robbery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147519-just-sold-my-gtr-but-very-suss/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've had my GTR on the market for about a month, but someone called up today and then turned up with cash. Fair enough, it was pretty cheap ($25,500 for a good, original R33 GTR), but it had just been broken into and I hadn't yet fixed the the broken ignition lock and plastics on the dash.

The guy pretty much asked no questions.. didn't care about VIN/chassis or a REVS check, didn't check that I was actually the owner, wasn't concerned in the slightest that it was QLD rego sold in NSW.

He even told me that he'd lost his license and then drove it when he left. He wasn't concerned about the security system and didn't really seem like the type of guy who'd buy a GTR on a whim.

He turned up with $25k in cash in a lockbox.

I guess I've got the cash, and it's genuine from what I can tell and not sequential etc, but I've got a really bad feeling about this.

Is there a scam in this?

I'm half expecting either men in balaclavas at my door tonight to reclaim the cash, or to be called by the poilce to let me know my car was just used in a robbery.

take the cash to a relo's place or something....or u could report it to the cops (though they will think ur paranoid)

I've had my GTR on the market for about a month, but someone called up today and then turned up with cash. Fair enough, it was pretty cheap ($25,500 for a good, original R33 GTR), but it had just been broken into and I hadn't yet fixed the the broken ignition lock and plastics on the dash.

The guy pretty much asked no questions.. didn't care about VIN/chassis or a REVS check, didn't check that I was actually the owner, wasn't concerned in the slightest that it was QLD rego sold in NSW.

He even told me that he'd lost his license and then drove it when he left. He wasn't concerned about the security system and didn't really seem like the type of guy who'd buy a GTR on a whim.

He turned up with $25k in cash in a lockbox.

I guess I've got the cash, and it's genuine from what I can tell and not sequential etc, but I've got a really bad feeling about this.

Is there a scam in this?

I'm half expecting either men in balaclavas at my door tonight to reclaim the cash, or to be called by the poilce to let me know my car was just used in a robbery.

due to the fact its friday....id take a couple of days off somewhere with the cash....i hope you had correctly filled out the notice of disposal etc and have a copy of a written reciept. Staying at your home address with that ammount of cash is not a good idea. I know of people who would kill you for half that ammount.

Can't you take it to a cop station or some place and get them to check whether it's legitimate or something? (ie not fake money) I saw a guy walk in there once and pull out a few thousand in 50s and got it checked.

Well what sort of person did look like ?? was he well spoken well dressed ?? i wouldnt worry if i was you as long you had a sales contract, transfer papers and dobuble checked the name and his driver's license you should be alright.

I ve had people coming with cash asked to buy my cars before no big deal.

drug money prob... sniff it

Not necessarily true... I know a few people who have cash like that locked up in safes and what not for the sake of not trusting banks. I wouldn't worry mate... Should be right.

When i was selling my 33 there was some dodgy guy.

Said he was comming from Tassie, just to buy my car, which he has never seen before. Wanted me to meet him at the airport and he was gonna pay cash and take my car from there. I found it to be too didgy so i pretty much told him if he wants to see the car he would have to come to my house. He kept trying to bargain me trying to MAKE me go to the airport so i pretty much told him to f**k off.

Edited by krzysiu
on another note i would have made him go get a bank cheque and not pay such a large amount by cash. Atleast you are then sure that the money is there and real.

actually kris thats where alot of the problems have been.. fake bank cheques.. and it has happened.. quite alot.. alot less nowdays tho

actually kris thats where alot of the problems have been.. fake bank cheques.. and it has happened.. quite alot.. alot less nowdays tho

the bank cheque i got for my car had a hologram and watermarks on it that are VERY hard to make up yourself

the bank cheque i got for my car had a hologram and watermarks on it that are VERY hard to make up yourself

lol yeah i know.. when i bought my car in 2003 from memory it didnt have a hologram.. watermarked tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...