Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Tell The Year Of A R33?

Torques

By Torques,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I needed a new (used) car and came across this ad:

R33

(Yes, I'm in the UK)

I liked the car, because this one is not modified and has not any embarrassing mods or spoilers.

The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me I had a look at the car.

Had A Look At The Car

In reality it didn't look that gorgeous anymore, but I still liked it.

I did some checks on the car, and followed an advice I got to verify the year:

The year of manufacture can be found by looking at the front seatbelts, near the floor mounting point. There is a fabric tag with the seatbelt specifications and the year of manufacture sewn onto the webbing.

So I checked the tag and it said 1993! ;)

I pointed this out to the seller, and he said that the seatbelt might have been replaced ..

I think that's quite a far fetched story, but are there any things apart from the tag to tell the year?

I checked many Skyline pictures, and all with the year 95 seem to have an airbag.

There's a number on the firewall where the engine sits and it says:

ECR33-002864

If this is some kind of serial number, it sounds pretty low to me and would support the 1993 tag year.

Hmmmmm .....

Is there any check I can do on the number?

I still like the car, and the engine made a good impression on me.

I'm a complete beginner with Skylines and any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks for the help!

Greetings from London!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147634-how-to-tell-the-year-of-a-r33/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Car is a '93 or '94 model ;)

- Seat belts are manufactured by another business, so they can be done in advance.

- The engine has the coil igniter modual, on the top, at the rear (near the firewall), which only came out in '93 or '94 cars.

- Has the S1 rear spoiler

- No airbag

ShylineR33 Rookie

ShylineR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

"The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me"

Hi,

I would have thought $12500 for an R33 with 69000km on the clock, was little on the too good to be true end of the scale if anything...

Damien

Edited by ShylineR33
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
"The price is 12,500 AUD.

Though the price sounded a bit steep to me"

Hi,

I would have thought $12500 for an R33 with 69000km on the clock, was little on the too good to be true end of the scale if anything...

Damien

No, it represents the upper limit for such a car in the UK and I'd only pay the amount for a 95 in mint condition.

As for the milage you should consider if such a low milage is realistic for an 11 year old car.

The car in the link (true 95) below is at 13,000 AUD and also at the top range of prices.

Besides note that this is not a GTR!

GTRs is what people want, so the price is higher.

Cheers

Edited by Torques
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Car is a '93 or '94 model ;)

- Seat belts are manufactured by another business, so they can be done in advance.

- The engine has the coil igniter modual, on the top, at the rear (near the firewall), which only came out in '93 or '94 cars.

- Has the S1 rear spoiler

- No airbag

:D

Thanks, I agree ... the seat belt could be made in advance ... but 2 years?

So much harder evidence seems to be the spoiler / airbag / coils.

What does S1 mean? And when came the 'new' spoiler exactly?

Can I do any research regarding the number on the firewall?

If you look at this one, it seems to be a true 95 model and I'd pay the price for it.

True 95

sloazr33 Proficient

sloazr33

Posted
Posted
:(

Thanks, I agree ... the seat belt could be made in advance ... but 2 years?

So much harder evidence seems to be the spoiler / airbag / coils.

What does S1 mean? And when came the 'new' spoiler exactly?

Can I do any research regarding the number on the firewall?

If you look at this one, it seems to be a true 95 model and I'd pay the price for it.

True 95

that one looks like a S1.5 - S1 front with S2 wing and the clear skyline boot garnish

the higher wing came on the S2 models, and on the S1.5 models

S1 is series 1 - info can be found here

S1.5 is series 1.5 - info can be found here , this is basically a S1 with the S2 wing and engine.

S2 is series 2 - info can be found here

more info on model differences can be found here

it is mainly cosmetic changes and standard options, there is other things like the coil igniter module as noted above

you can post the VIN number (number on firewall) in these threads and someone with the Nissan FAST program will check it out for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=133729

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128496

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted (edited)
yeah it looks like a 93 - rear spoiler and steering wheel - but thats how i look at it

what is it bout the steering wheel that differentiates the models? just curious

EDIT: ok realised for myself. its the airbag right?

Edited by Basti
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good morning from the UK!

Wow ... I woke up this morning and was wondering whether there is any reply at all.

:P

Thank you so much for all the information, this is just great!

I knew from the start that the car didn't feel like a 95 model, but the seller was asking the 1995 price for it.

He stressed many times that this is a 95 model...

As for the airbag I read in a wiki that all 96 models have the airbag as standard.

I think with the VIN number I really can nail the seller down on the year.

(Unless he argues that this has been replaced as well)

Cheers!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zoidian
      What's this Foreign Object?

      By Zoidian · Posted

      Forgot to update. I ended up removing it and found out that it's dead. The car seems to run better than it did, although I haven't driven it hard yet. Literally just a flow restriction.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 general questions

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Sounds like the rack seals blew.
    • GTSBoy
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      ^ This is all good advice. I can imagine that there's some passive components in the HVAC controller that run that PWM output that could die, or suffer bad solder joints. It can be worth opening it up, taking a schmooze around looking for swollen electro caps, evidence of liquid escape anywhere, tracks that have been hot, lifted, cracked, etc. A DMM might not be suitable for seeing if the PWM output is pulsing. Might be too fast and too low voltage for a DMM to keep up. An analogue voltmeter might give a better hope. I use a handheld oscilloscope (<$100 from Aliexpress if you want something cheap). A DMM might see the voltage across the motor flicker. Otherwise, as above. If you can successfully see PWM action, then the control side should be good. If you can't see it with what you have, you might need to step up the instrumentation used, as above. Beyond that, and dbm7's advice on testing the motor directly, you're down to looking for broken wires, corroded connector pins, etc.
    • ChrisGtt
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By ChrisGtt · Posted

      So Thanks for the comments etc. To follow up on this, we went down the path of fitting a divider down the middle of the external pipe that was added to the exhaust manifold and the divider went from very close to the external wastegate all the way up to the "V" part where the pipes from each side of the manifold joined. After this modification it was finally in a position to do the dyno-tune with some degree of success. Top end power was down about 10kw (250rwkw down to 240rwkw) I believe from previous but it seems to be more responsive lower down and at least it is now driveable and fun and back on the road to be enjoyed. Apparently the timing couldn't be run the same as it was running into knock and boost was down about 1psi. For all we know this could have been from the fuel being a bit older, or perhaps some slight complication from the new head gasket as we didn't have compression figures from before that mod to compare. I'm no mechanic and this is second hand info but I just wanted to follow-up to those that commented or read the original post with interest. After so many months of stuffing around this is a big win. The interesting part was most of the info around this was gained from information around Barra motors and not GTR as the manifold setup on the Barra with single turbo was more similar.  Thanks for those that helped with info. Regards Rob 
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      G'day ... first up, I very much doubt that's a resistor network (as used also for this job), but the part# looks right. The description of 'power module assembly' looks to be nissanese for 'PWM driven, ground switched, DC motor speed controller'.... the circuit in the schematic kinda infers that's the case... ...with the transistor symbol appearing in the unit described here as 'Fan Control Amp(lifier)'....being driven by pin20 on the HVAC unit,  and a feedback signal on pin19 from the motor negative terminal for some reason (might be motor fault detection, maybe they detect commutator switching to determine motor revs as well, I dunno)... but if they are  counting commutator spikes, a bad segment (or really worn brushes) will throw a spanner in the works... The motor itself will as said be brushed DC with segmented commutator, rated at 12VDC nominally ~ now-a-days I just unplug them, determine the positive wire, and hook them up to a variable power supply and find out how much current they draw, if they work etc etc ...you can also check for bad segments...ie; set the power supply up to feed 1volt @ 2amp max, then watch the wattage count as you slowly rotate the fan blower motor through a complete revolution ; any bad/dead segments will be clearly evident...some folks would just say determine the positive wire, and feed it battery voltage, and if fan spin, you've got a win...<grin>... well, at least that infers it should do something when plugged back in, and the HVAC unit commands it to run... and if it doesn't, you suspect the module, but you should check the PWM signal on pin20 is actually present, and if it is, blame the module ...  
×
×
  • Create New...