Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After purchasing my R33 about 2 months ago now.I have followed some modification guides to get more from my car.And im wondering what to do next.

Im not after huge power,just a nice consistant and reliable figure.

So far mods include: 3inch exhaust

3inch split dump pipe

Apexi pod filter(with alloy pod box)

tube and fin intercooler kit(will be fitted soon)

cushion button clutch kit(fitted next week)

And im running a constant 9psi

Im thinking of getting better spark plugs and a walbro fuel pump.Ofcoarse id like to get a power fc.But ive been looking at the apexi SAFC2.

All input appreciated.

CHEERS

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/
Share on other sites

if youre happy with the power output of the standard turbo then go with the SAFC and provided your coils are good, youd be getting close to 300hp on 12psi and for many people, thats enough for the occassional squirt.

gap your plugs to .8 from memory and your fuel pump should be good enough all though its always nice to know youve got a safety net in regards to flow should you replace it. Especially as theyre over 10 years old now.

Youve got all the other supporting mods there such as FMIC, cooler and clutch.

Whats controlling your boost? Those $22 spring bleed valves on this site would be ok for your application

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2755794
Share on other sites

if youre happy with the power output of the standard turbo then go with the SAFC and provided your coils are good, youd be getting close to 300hp on 12psi and for many people, thats enough for the occassional squirt.

gap your plugs to .8 from memory and your fuel pump should be good enough all though its always nice to know youve got a safety net in regards to flow should you replace it. Especially as theyre over 10 years old now.

Youve got all the other supporting mods there such as FMIC, cooler and clutch.

Whats controlling your boost? Those $22 spring bleed valves on this site would be ok for your application

I have the little pocket rocket tubotech manual boost controller.Bloody awesome little product. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2755796
Share on other sites

Have you read the sticky thread?

There are some great links to past threads which will give you lots of ideas.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

cheers

Cool.Thanks mate very interesting stuff.Seeing as the power fc is now phased out i might purchase the SAFC2.

Id like to hear from people who have the same mods i have and has bought a SAFC2.I guess if its tuned right i would expect smoother power delivery and ofcoarse an increase in KW.

Where would i be able to purchase one at a good price?

Edited by NYTSKY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2755884
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

1. A Bosch 040 500hp intank is perfect

& will set you back $205 delievered

Australia Wide off Ebay.

2. Obviously, a stand alone ECU is much better

than an SAFC. Nevertheles, its still an upgrade.

My old set-up:

3" front pipe

4" HKS Dragger cat-back

Apexi SAFC-2

Apexi LM Intercooler

HKS Mushroom filter.

HKS EBC GEN3

It made 193rwkw on 10psi (stock boost)

198.9rwkw on 12psi

211.2rwkw on 14psi

I have a PFC now with a GT3071R.

I am selling the SAFC2, pm if interested.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2755914
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

1. A Bosch 040 500hp intank is perfect

& will set you back $205 delievered

Australia Wide off Ebay.

2. Obviously, a stand alone ECU is much better

than an SAFC. Nevertheles, its still an upgrade.

My old set-up:

3" front pipe

4" HKS Dragger cat-back

Apexi SAFC-2

Apexi LM Intercooler

HKS Mushroom filter.

HKS EBC GEN3

It made 193rwkw on 10psi (stock boost)

198.9rwkw on 12psi

211.2rwkw on 14psi

I have a PFC now with a GT3071R.

I am selling the SAFC2, pm if interested.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Bill

PM sent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2755988
Share on other sites

Does the SAFC2 eliminate things like misfires and such?

It will get rid of r & r with proper tuning by not allowing the AFM to see the full 5.1V i think it is

Misfires will be due to your plug gap and/or coilpack condition.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2756186
Share on other sites

It will get rid of r & r with proper tuning by not allowing the AFM to see the full 5.1V i think it is

Misfires will be due to your plug gap and/or coilpack condition.

Mine was tuned!

R/R mode would still occur during

cold night drag meets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147675-what-is-next/#findComment-2756279
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...