Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just handed my car over to get it turbo'd up

parts im fitting for the turbo conversion are:-

apexi power fc ($1029 ebay :P)

apexi avcr ($588 ebay :))

turbo + oil and water lines (stock)

front pipe and dump pipe(stock)

370cc injectors + fuel pressure regulator (stock)

turbo manifold (stock)

600x300x76 intercooler kit from just jap ($350)

walbro 500hp intank fuel pump ($170)

parts cost me around 2600

labour is costing me 1500

the tune for the power fc is costing 650 including installation

parts ive already got on:-

hks super dragger exhaust system

drift urethane pod filter

i expect around 160rwkw but may be more not sure :) but thats what i reckon will have to post up all dyno figures when i get it back which should be in a week or so

hopefully nothing goes BANG hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/
Share on other sites

Ive just handed my car over to get it turbo'd up

parts im fitting for the turbo conversion are:-

apexi power fc ($1029 ebay :P)

apexi avcr ($588 ebay :))

turbo + oil and water lines (stock)

front pipe and dump pipe(stock)

370cc injectors + fuel pressure regulator (stock)

turbo manifold (stock)

600x300x76 intercooler kit from just jap ($350)

walbro 500hp intank fuel pump ($170)

parts cost me around 2600

labour is costing me 1500

the tune for the power fc is costing 650 including installation

parts ive already got on:-

hks super dragger exhaust system

drift urethane pod filter

i expect around 160rwkw but may be more not sure :) but thats what i reckon will have to post up all dyno figures when i get it back which should be in a week or so

hopefully nothing goes BANG hahaha

160rwkw lmao! my car pulled 161 stock....catback

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2759538
Share on other sites

160rwkw lmao! my car pulled 161 stock....catback

dont worry ive got a 10grand personal loan (which i havent spent any money from yet) i wouldnt laugh yet :) once ive poured some of that into it then laugh at my 400m of frying my cheap chinese tyres ta :P

Edited by DaGr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2759545
Share on other sites

no head gasket???

u should put a thicker head gasket at least for sum boost.....maybe forgies?

forgies later but maybe a head gasket when i source one, ive already got a uas tailshaft which claims "more response and less drivetrain loss" that gets fitted once the car comes back to me :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2759547
Share on other sites

dont worry ive got a 10grand personal loan (which i havent spent any money from yet) i wouldnt laugh yet :) once ive poured some of that into it then laugh at my 400m of frying my cheap chinese tyres ta :P

cool if ya in sydney ill run you at the creek!...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2759572
Share on other sites

Leave it high-compression for a bit, you'll crack 180rwkw and have a ton more torque at 7psi :)

A headgasket just turns it back into a boring RB25DET spec engine :P

more boost and possibly more reliable, would rather that then my engine dying after a few months

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2762326
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

OK 100 dramas later (including a steel wheel turbo that we couldnt modify to fit) and a blown clutch ive gotten my car back from advan, with only 160rwkw (which is alot more than stock) have gearbox dramas at the moment, a bit hard to get into 1st and reverse but im sure it just needs an oil change (redline oils perhaps?) but if i need a new box well then shi.t happens, other than that i think the low rwkw is due to me finding out that the exhaust isnt actually a cat back but the tip has just been replaced (damn northshore prestige i asked for a cat back!!) and also the low boost and timing of it all. A few more issues which i will be sorting out soon is a new timing belt and getting the radiator fluid as well as hoses changed, i still havent got the greddy turbo timer installed that will be next on the list as well. I will also be doing internals around tax return time, whether i just put in some forged pistons or should i do the rods as well, if i do the pistons do i have to do the rods too? after i get some advice i'll start buying the parts.

any comments or advice is welcome cheers.

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2995384
Share on other sites

what boost are you running to get 160 at the wheels, i was a little dissapointed i only hit 130 but i have a r32 turbo grr 33 one blew up, you have a bigger cooler than i do but that wouldnt really affect the power cept mabye you can up the boost or timing a little, the only other reall difference i have is a microtech sted of power fc and i have an after market fuel reg rather and stock na injectors but they arnt maxxed out yet so they arnt holding my power back any.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2998975
Share on other sites

what boost are you running to get 160 at the wheels, i was a little dissapointed i only hit 130 but i have a r32 turbo grr 33 one blew up, you have a bigger cooler than i do but that wouldnt really affect the power cept mabye you can up the boost or timing a little, the only other reall difference i have is a microtech sted of power fc and i have an after market fuel reg rather and stock na injectors but they arnt maxxed out yet so they arnt holding my power back any.

at the moment theres stock boost, but im a bit dissapointed with the result as i thought i had a cat back but it turns out to be a stock exhaust with new tip lol *note to self dont ever trust a car dealer* but yeah stock boost and theres no real modifications apart from pfc and cooler, i should be getting a full turbo back sorted out very shortly hoping to hit the 175 - 180 mark with that atm theres too much torque it pulls hard but i havent gone past 4000rpm 1. coz im scared to loose control and 2. coz new clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-2999726
Share on other sites

The torque is great...I'm still in disbelief that unarmed isn't running the injectors out off puff...maybe the RB20 turbo just doesn't flow enough full stop. Get an R33 turbo and you should see at least what DaGr81 is seeing. When he replaces the exhaust, whammy!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-3000771
Share on other sites

yeh boo hoo to the 32 turbo lol its not pushing as much as when the 33 turbo was on only breifly, grrr i asked for another 33 turbo n what do they do go and put on a 32 turbo get it all running then tell me and say ohh it flows the same grrr bullshit, oh well, after a few weeks of driving the car now im liking the power more and more and figuring the feel out, the kick at 5000rpm aint there with the microtech dunno if thats cause it doesnt have vtc control or cause the vct control has been set up to run like a turbo but it does seem that a 5k the turbo starts to run out of puff and drops a little boost but the car doesnt seem to drop any power and still pulls right out to redline so mabye its a turbo thing i duno, the start up and cold start procedures arnt right get ill have to take it back next week to get them to look at it, other than that my fuel reg is really noisy so im getting that changed under warrenty, but ohh the car is soo much more powerfull now loving it, would love to put a 33 turbo on and cooler and injectors car could prob hit round 180-200 then but im happy with what i got atm lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-3010492
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

i havent updated this in a while.

done a few things since my turbo conversion.

had cooling to take care of so i threw in a nismo 62.5 degree thermo, which i got rid of a week later because it was keeping temps at 68 all day long, now i binned the stock radiator and have a just jap item in there looks good and does a good job temps hover around 78 which is a good temp.

i binned the standard dump pipe and front pipe, also from just jap is a 3" split dump/front pipe, only thing left to do now is fix up that exhaust system, as i mentioned earlier its really stuffed "meant to be a 3" hks super dragger" but the cat is only 2" and the pipe to the tip is all different diameters, hard to believe that it came with it like that from japan, got quoted 350 for a pipe change (keeping the hks tip) and i'll probably end up with a xforce cat.

power output is around the 180rwkw mark at the moment not sure on torque but once i fix the exhaust problem i will dyno again and post up the sheet.

was also about to do the brake conversion when i eyed an 8piston caliper kit which im really keen on so ive sold off all the brake parts i had and now will get the 8 pistons (too big but it looks nice :P) 5 stud hubs are in the garage as well as the rear brake parts (will need r34gtt rims until im ready for some nice enkei's) :D

only one thing left from here....ive been saving for about 5 months for this.........RB30 :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147878-r33-gts-to-gtst/#findComment-3327816
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...