Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm planning on driving my s2 r33 about 4,500km to west aus and am trying to hunt down one of those car bra thingys for my car.

I have absolutely no idea where to start looking for these things and any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm staying in Sunshine Coast at the moment, but having to go to Brisbane isn't a big deal to get 2 of these (a mate of mine is coming along in his s1 r33 as well).

Thanks in advance guys,

Shayde.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/
Share on other sites

so you'd rather dig the fudge outta your front bar?

rather than be a fudge packer, yes.

Seriosuly the things are hideous and over priced, you can pick up bar for less. if it's just temp use some tape and card, spray the thing body coloured.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/#findComment-2769283
Share on other sites

I think these days there is also a plastic film product that you can use. Its simlar to contact, just obviously way better and made specifically for the automovite market. Maybe look in to that. Its also clear...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/#findComment-2769340
Share on other sites

I would not ever use a car bra again...

Used to work for FORD years ago (many didnt not know this, so keep it quiet). But I had a customer come in with a brand new EL XR8.

He had the car bra on from the day he bought it. It was in for its 10,000km service... I took the car bra off and the bra had rubbed the paint on the bonnet back to undercoat...

So ill never use a car bra ever...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/#findComment-2769936
Share on other sites

I would not ever use a car bra again...

Used to work for FORD years ago (many didnt not know this, so keep it quiet). But I had a customer come in with a brand new EL XR8.

He had the car bra on from the day he bought it. It was in for its 10,000km service... I took the car bra off and the bra had rubbed the paint on the bonnet back to undercoat...

So ill never use a car bra ever...

:) LMAO... must of been a bit of a plonker leaving it on the whole time !

I've had 2 x Carbras and they have saved me on long journeys in the past back when Suzuki Gti's were the rage, trucks and what not dropping rocks and crap off their load or newly sealed roads where morons in shitboxes think its funny to tear past ya kicking up the loose gravel chipping the crap out of your paint work ! But I found if you left the Bra on it did sweat, also you are right Col, I drove around with it on for a week when I got to my destination on holidays and it did start to wear the Black Metalic paint, needed a puff after that.

So yeah get one but take it off when ya get there.

Both the Bras I got where awesome quality and well worth the cash, from memory floating around the $380 to $450 mark.

'Borgs' who is a member on this forum has just bought one for his 33 GTR and is driving from VIC to QLD and I should see him by this weekend as he's passing thru, I will see what he says about the Bra.

My main concern was the lack of air flow maybe ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/#findComment-2770225
Share on other sites

a respray Vs the original Paint protected .... LOLOLOOL> go mate..!

There awsome for 2pac and anyone that done damage leaving them on because of laziness .. SUKED in for being a lazy fuG

Edited by ish
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148336-car-bras/#findComment-2773525
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...