Jump to content
SAU Community

Arc Airbox-who's Got One?

LTSJayce

By LTSJayce,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

LTSJayce Veteran

LTSJayce

Posted
Posted

Hi all. I wont bore you on some of the words I used in the search engine to see if any of you lot has one of the fabled(and I'm led to believe very expensive) ARC airboxes,but I came up blank. So...who's got one? What's it fitted to? And does anyone have solid,proven info' either negative or positive about their flow rate,legality(will be involving an engineer to get everything passed anyhow),quality of fit(ease of fitting up,too) etc? Availablity of new elements? I'm not a fan of pods sucking in engine heat,and an enclosed box usually looks average,and no one whats to say they've dropped flow with their new bling box. So,the ARC looks pretty good...so far. A quick overview as to it's intended home: R32 GT-R,approx. 350 AWKW is the expected figure in the end.

So,now I've put it out there;what say you all?

P.S. I'm a bit bah,humbug about tomorrow's little religious gathering,so I'll just wish you all a nice day off if you get one,and keep everything nice and safe,'K?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148555-arc-airbox-whos-got-one/
Share on other sites
hanyou Grand Master

hanyou

Posted
Posted

i was looking for one for ages. but settled with a k&n hi flow panel ($80). i dont think the gains vs. cost is worth it imo. but hey everyone on this forum seems to be richer then me lol. damn money pit gtr's. arc boxes were $550 new from nengun last time i checked.

infected flow Rising Star

infected flow

Posted
Posted
Hi all. I wont bore you on some of the words I used in the search engine to see if any of you lot has one of the fabled(and I'm led to believe very expensive) ARC airboxes,but I came up blank. So...who's got one? What's it fitted to? And does anyone have solid,proven info' either negative or positive about their flow rate,legality(will be involving an engineer to get everything passed anyhow),quality of fit(ease of fitting up,too) etc? Availablity of new elements? I'm not a fan of pods sucking in engine heat,and an enclosed box usually looks average,and no one whats to say they've dropped flow with their new bling box. So,the ARC looks pretty good...so far. A quick overview as to it's intended home: R32 GT-R,approx. 350 AWKW is the expected figure in the end.

So,now I've put it out there;what say you all?

P.S. I'm a bit bah,humbug about tomorrow's little religious gathering,so I'll just wish you all a nice day off if you get one,and keep everything nice and safe,'K?

dont bother getting one they are more restrictive than your standard airbox...tried and tested on a r34gtt..

sorry but i dont have the dyno sheets ...--- i know that wont help but yeah

cheers

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
dont bother getting one they are more restrictive than your standard airbox...tried and tested on a r34gtt..

sorry but i dont have the dyno sheets ...--- i know that wont help but yeah

cheers

wow! i'm sureeeee they are!!

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

I have built a custom air box and intake...using a UniFilter. In the end I reverted to stock aitbox with hi-flow panel filter which not only makes it more stealth but is one less defect I need to worry about...

as for performance...I reckon my stockie is actually better now...eitehr way there is no real difference. My tune is at 270 rwkw atm

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I have one

Had pods on it beforehand - those m's k&n ones.

The box is a lot quieter, but still makes a bit of sound

Compared to the standard box wih an s tune filter its slightly better, compared to the oem filter/box im sure it would be miles ahead - otherwise why make it?

You get what you pay for i guess :P

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have one in my 33. bigger cavity, great quiet intake sound compared to pods. reservations though as it sits pretty hi and close to the bonnet. thinking of modifying the stock snorkel to provide better and cooler airflow but havent gotten around to it. if money's an issue just get urself an apex hi flow pannel. the stock box is a very good setup in my opinion because of the snorkel intake. it just popped up on the forums for a good price and i snapped it up.

oh yeah it also makes the engine bay look pretty too!!

Edited by (B1) MR_fanny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...