Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Have been looking at a r32 GTR, but the paint n panel work have slightly put me off...

So been shopping around and found a R32 GTS-T converted to a GTR N1.

Just wondering if any one could give me some advise on what i should check as i know this would had been a severe mod....

Including 4wd, RB26, front and rear guards. Looks really nice..

Also would this be registered as a GTR or GTS-T ?? as its changed a fair bit...

If possible can i get some further info on if this is a wise mod or just strange....

Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149371-gts-t-conversion-to-gtr/
Share on other sites

It'd be registered as a modified GTS-t and it'd have to have an engineer's certificate to be legal. Interesting as to why someone went to all the trouble of doing all that, after all is said and done I bet it would have ended up being more expensive than buying an original GT-R.

So is it this one particular GT-R with bad paint and panel work that's put you off?

Because they're about 11 billion others out there :P

agree'd.. go the genuine GTR.. take ur time and search for one..

as the modified GTST will be very expensive to maintain etc as most the stuff will be custom and unavailable in the aftermarket

why have a copy GTR when u can just go and buy a real GTR

agree'd.. go the genuine GTR.. take ur time and search for one..

as the modified GTST will be very expensive to maintain etc as most the stuff will be custom and unavailable in the aftermarket

why have a copy GTR when u can just go and buy a real GTR

Hey cheers for the feedback.

Genuine GTR; Yeh very tru there are alot of them out there, working with a limit of about 20 for purchase price see a fair few around but mostly above the 25k mark for something that has a little work done to it and reasonable body...

Fake GTR; As for parts and stuff i would had imagined it would be same kind of price running gtr as same running gear ? not sure really seeking info :)

read a few reviews on the conversion and some say the gts chassis is lighter then gtr ???

But yeh the cost of it would had outta control glad i didnt pay for it :laugh:

Cheers again for the replies, see if u can help me a little further

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...