Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod Filter Custom Cover - Ebay

matteh33

By matteh33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted

As usual with these types of partitions, there is nowhere to get air from unless you have an FMIC with "over the radiator" return pipe.

Also there is no provision for the factory air intake.

For the $$ + postage you could make a better one yourself if you have the time, inclination, tools and patience...

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

Yeah id say your still liable to be defected. Especially if you install the neon they say comes with it or whatever. Nothing says "look at me/defect me" than a lit up box in your engine bay.

Besides the fact that the air inside that partition is going to heat up mighty quickly considering the perspex is going to do nothing to stop radiated heat.

You're better off going for an insulated opaque box painted black to look as factory as possible.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

lazy bastard is right. make one yourself, custom fitted to your setup.

i saw these on ebay yesterday, and my first question was, what are these made of? they dont look like they'd keep heat out. they look like they'd melt if anything.

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted

Putting an extra box on top of a pod filter doesn't turn it into something else.

If you have an aftermarket cooler, and a pod filter (regardless of whether the filter is in a restrictive box) you will still get defected.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

lol you could build that yourself for $10 with supplies from bunnings, and you could even save yourself the embarrassment of having a neon light in your engine bay.

At best it'll keep hot air out, but I'd question the heat resistance of the unit, esp near a nice top mount setup etc. Its not gonna stop you from gettin defected.

mr_crust Experienced

mr_crust

Posted
Posted

with the heat of the engine bay perspex will melt and disform.

i have made heaps of heat sheilds to re-route air into the box and still cut engine heat and after a hell of a lot of testing i found what worked best.

using a stainless stell box was best with rubber on the side walls of the box. Also you cannot have a totally sealed box, it must have somewhere , where clean dense air can enter , either usinghte stock intake pipe or re-routing it from the front bumper :wave:

personally this ebay one wouldnt last too long im guessing

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

i made mine myself, will post pics soon, looks like factory. It's made out of an aluminum panel composite, called alucobond, 1mm aly 3 mm polyurathena a 1 mm aly again. Then all lined with 15mm thermoinsluation foam, and the air picked up from the fornt bar via old hole for cooler. Dropped the engine intake temps dramatically, will post some pics soon.

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted
i made mine myself, will post pics soon, looks like factory. It's made out of an aluminum panel composite, called alucobond, 1mm aly 3 mm polyurathena a 1 mm aly again. Then all lined with 15mm thermoinsluation foam, and the air picked up from the fornt bar via old hole for cooler. Dropped the engine intake temps dramatically, will post some pics soon.

Will be interested to see some pics of your air box!

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

i have made two custom setups...with a new 3" intake form the front bar, covers etc.

I went back to stock..wacked in a trust high-flow filter and saw the same, if not better, dyno results. The sealed setup + pressure of the seal stock boxes make them hard to beat IMO. There have been numerous external tests which have showed without a sealed unit u are pretty much wasting ur time. After making numerous custom setups for both my cars...I now have stock airboxes...but beter ducting/intakes.

Makes no "whoosh" noise, and 1 less defect for them to get me on in the future

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

I'll post up some pics tonight for you. The box i have made is sealed, well preatty much.

So how does the stock box appear to give much better midrange torque? I did the enclosure as the car already came with the pod and so forth.

justin911 Grand Master

justin911

Posted
Posted

i use the stock airbox 2...

but im just wondering which external tests are these ???

whenever i take the lid of the airbox off i always get another 5kw or so on the dyno (its sucking in hotter air obviously.. which isnt good)

and evan when i cut a big hole in the side of the top of the airbox it gained another 3kw... so im curious how your airbox made a higher figure on the dyno than it would with a pod ????

There have been numerous external tests which have showed without a sealed unit u are pretty much wasting ur time.
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...