Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well basically as the title says i've lost my locknut and i'm in the need for some new tires soon (good thing its not a daily driver) Its a lock nut i've never seen before so i'm not really expecting anyone to have one.

My mate has a ute with mags and lock nuts and he got tires the other day not even thinking about the locknut and he went to pick the car up and the tires were changed, it wasn't til i mentioned about how they got the wheels off that he realised he didn't even have a locknut (never got it when he bought the ute)

So do tire places have spare locknuts or what?

Any suggestions of what to do would be much appreciated!

(i've already tried putting a socket on it!)

i had this same prob when i bought my car.no lock nut key with it.and the bloke changed numbers or something and couldnt get a hold of him.. they where light as hell alloy one.tried socked but didnt work

so i took it to tyre shop and they used a even smaller socket(19mm) i think and got it of..charged me 20 bucks

that happen to me when bought my car. took it to bridgestone and they had a box of lock nuts. eventually found 1 that was close then hammered it on and tuned it. got em off but have to be careful not to grind it away otherwise wheels will neen do be cut off.

Take it to a wheel/tyre shop and they'll get em off for ya. Most places have a special set of sockets called locknut breakers designed to get locknuts off. If you want, bring it to my work and I'll get em off for ya, they're a piece of piss, provided they are an external nut sorthing. Not the ones with the pattern on the inside.

I lost my key, using the locknut breakers, I had all of the locknuts off in 5mins :P

I had special lock nuts (with a rotating outer piece) on my S15 and the key got mangled - Bridgestone actualy welded/fused the spinning part to the main part of the nut then we smashed a socket over them - came off eventually

salad where are u i will get u to take my left rear off the rotor its jammed like a muther ***********

Tyrepower Campbelltown

If you need the help, PM me and I'll give you my number and then you can come in and we'll get the thing off :laugh:

the amount of frustration i went thru when a company i took my car to told me they had to hammer a socket onto my lock nuts to get em off so that they could change the wheels.

nice way to destroy a set of anodized blue Rays wheel nuts.

i didnt have then key for my wheel nuts, and my mechanic got them off and the nuts were still useable, then shortly after the key was found lol...

theres a few lock nut manufacturers around adelaide, u can go see them and see if any of their keys fit...i tried that but mine was some wierd one...

i didnt have then key for my wheel nuts, and my mechanic got them off and the nuts were still useable, then shortly after the key was found lol...

theres a few lock nut manufacturers around adelaide, u can go see them and see if any of their keys fit...i tried that but mine was some wierd one...

i didnt have then key for my wheel nuts, and my mechanic got them off and the nuts were still useable, then shortly after the key was found lol...

theres a few lock nut manufacturers around adelaide, u can go see them and see if any of their keys fit...i tried that but mine was some wierd one...

Ive got a set of lock nut removers at work that shouldn't really destroy your lock nuts. So if you want come down to north tce tyres and ask for jarrod and i;ll do it. Phone number 83624417

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...