Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

Just a quick question, can anyone tell me some good places to find some parts for skylines in melbourne preferably eastern suburbs or city but doesn't have to be - looking for A'Pexi safc or boost controller, or even shops who sell cheap Pioneer subs and good quality Amps (Alpine, Pioneer, Fusion etc.).

Cheap is what i'm looking for - so anything cheaper then places such as Autobarn, Strathfield etc would be fantastic as i already know what their prices are.

Cheers :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15009-melbourne-parts-dealers/
Share on other sites

didya get my last PM? and yep i probably will go for a safc before a b/c but i'm just trying to get some idea of places to look at whilst i'm down there - i'm going to mainly concentrate on my sound setup after my alarm is fitted on monday, once i get that good then it'll a safc and b/c

Originally posted by KamikazeR33

also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=14456

Join in this group buy.

Where else are you going to find a new 4x100Wrms amp for $333. Reveiws have also been very good on these amps, just do a search.

  • 2 weeks later...

KK13

I've had a bit done there over the last couple of years.

Mostly recently a full engine rebuild. Piston No 6 went boom. I didn't have a lazy 3-4K to buy a second hand RB20DET so I gave him the challange of coming up with an option to repair what we had.

The compromise we reached was sending the head off to get checked, and replacing the bottom end.

It took a lot of labour, but I got it back on the road for only $1500!

I had quotes done with other mechanics in the area and didn't get one under $5000, so I was pretty impressed.

Another incident was the death of my air flow meter - I was all ready to go out and buy a new one, he (John) checked it out with Injectronics - and they were able to repair/re-engineer it good as new. - again saving a wad of cash.

I've never had an issue with any of his work (as no apprentice is allowed within 100m of the car), and the motor is pulling as strong as ever.

I could go on, but my point is: He doesn't shit you - if the car doesn't really need a new ***whatever*** he wont insist that you buy one. And he gives you options, eg. you could replace it for x$, we can get a second handy for x$, or repair the existing one for x$. - and his work is of a high standard, and he has a lot of the spare parts in stock.

(Long answer, but I hope it helps you find a good mechanic) - There's nothing worse than not having one.

Yeah he does my servicing as well.

Oil changes, checking all the fluid levels in all the spots there is fluid - suspension, transmission etc..., does suspension work, brakes, (he doesn't do panel beating or resprays - as far as I know anyway)

He's got a few 33's on the books (at least there has been one or two around there when I've picked up my car before)

Pretty cheap...I'm trying to remember....the oil was pricey as I use a 5W-30 ish synthetic Penzoil. I'm pretty sure it was less than $200 by a fair whack though.

I'm not sure on his stock of R33 spares, but I've seen at least a few bars down there. I know he doesn't really sell full cars, more into parts, servicing and fixing our f**k ups.

Oh and the best thing I forgot to mention - he is open late, like 9pm late! - so you can go around after work to pick up your car. It makes things so much easier than mechanics who shut up shop by 5pm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...