Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rest assured, it will more then likely be your problem, the oil return needs the freest flowing path straight to the sump.

take the sump off and weld in a fitting.

i put a turbo on my n/a and i had the problem but when i took the turbo back off since i got defected there is a bolt plugging up the oil return into the sump and then water line aswell just have a look for urself open the bolt and turn ur car on and u will see straight away :(

Edited by Stealthynsa
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill give ya power figures in about a week trying to sorce an aftermarket ecu to put in, i borrowed a friends and now he needs it bak so i havent put it up on the dyno

Just an update, after 2 weeks of looking for a power fc i've given up, and called vpw and ordered in a microtech lt12s plug and play ecu for $1500 only anoying thing is its going to be 2 weeks before i see it grrrr, so the place where my car was at said they dont have enough room to keep it in so i picked it up tonight and its running perfectly but way too lean to be able to drive. just to anyone thinking of doing the turbo conversion make sure you either get an aftermarket ecu or a turbo ecu and a proper piggy back NOT A SAFC as they dont have enough tunnability

Just an update, after 2 weeks of looking for a power fc i've given up, and called vpw and ordered in a microtech lt12s plug and play ecu for $1500 only anoying thing is its going to be 2 weeks before i see it grrrr, so the place where my car was at said they dont have enough room to keep it in so i picked it up tonight and its running perfectly but way too lean to be able to drive. just to anyone thinking of doing the turbo conversion make sure you either get an aftermarket ecu or a turbo ecu and a proper piggy back NOT A SAFC as they dont have enough tunnability

What about just getting your ecu remapped?

i was going to get the ecu re-mapped by dr. drift but he was waiting on a dyno and now he's away in tazzie until the 22nd, im still waiting on my micro-tech hopefully it comes this week, i got a mallpassi fuel reg, and am thinking of putting a front mount on if the computer doesnt come this week, as soon as i get it on the dyno ill post up the results

i've been told different things, the standard ecu 2 places told me it will work no probs and 2 places told me that it wont and you need gtst wiring loom, then i've spoken to 2 people on here with power fc's in their na's and they said they work no probs and one person with a link and it works no probs so i went for the plug in loom but if it doesnt work plug in i guess i can get an auto elce to work out which sensor wires are diff and swap the wires on the loom, i havent found a na ecu pin-out anywhere so i cant get any defonate answers,

yay i just picked up my malpassi rising rate fuel reg, that should push the pressure of the injectors up a bit when it goes on the dyno, for anyone who wanted to know the first dyno read out was 149 at the wheels with an r32 ecu +safc 2, didnt touch the ignition timing and it was running really lean and the air flow meter was about to shit itself. now i got a new airflow meter and a fuel reg and the microtech should push it up a bit higher than that, and if i dont have to many bills i might see if i can get a bigger smic mabye a r34 one, i dont want 2 intake mods and atm i like the poddy sound lol, tune still looking at being next week cant wait,

yeh im not driving it at the moment i got a mates 73 rolla its got a supercharged mr2 engine in it, its pretty fun to drive lol. i cant wait to get in the skyline agian so much easier to drive smoother and i cant wait to see how this thing is going to go, i havent really had a chance to give it any real stick since i put the turbo on, i had on go and i was getting wheel spin on full throttle when it hit the crazy 5,000 power band really hoping for a fun car.

hey my microtech is coming in on tuesday YAY i cant wait, but i could get it booked in for a tune until friday, do you guys think the car will be safe to drive (cruiseing it of course) with the base tune of the microtech, its a base tune for a turbo gtst that is ment to run really rich so that the car can be driven to the tunners no matter what sort of state the car is in, you guys think it will be safe or should i not risk it???

just to let you all know i havent abandond this project the cars going in for my microtech install - malpassi fuel reg and tune so should have an af readout and dyno graph and some sort of OHHHHH yeh feeling tommorow might be too obsessed with the car tommorow to post it straight away lol but ill get it up there when i can

just to let you all know i havent abandond this project the cars going in for my microtech install - malpassi fuel reg and tune so should have an af readout and dyno graph and some sort of OHHHHH yeh feeling tommorow might be too obsessed with the car tommorow to post it straight away lol but ill get it up there when i can

You better show up at my place after man,

I'm really keen to see how this little project worked out :D

Stu Daddy

Cool good to hear, so this is the third person to confirm the whacky power delivery after 5000rpm :D

Must have something to do with the cams?

The cams are identical in spec the only difference is the vct switch over. The N/A being later.

So I'd say was occuring is torque starts to fall off slightly then vct switches over and torque picks up again.

With the turbo earlier switch over point it may very well be that its switching before the torque drop off and when it does switch it simply holds that torque a little better giving a more linear feel compared to the n/a switch over point.

lol .. I hope that made sense.

GRRRRRR im really really f*ing pissed off my microtech didnt turn up now i had to cancel my tune till it comes in i been waiting 3 weeks for it grrrrr, and another thing to top the list i put a gtst ecu in to drive it to work today and the car is running rough as guts on start up it seems to run rich and retard for the first like 2 minutes then when you driving it sometimes it feels as if the car is being really restricted like a blocked exhaust or the boost is leaking out somewhere but it doesnt look like either are happing just feels like it hope its just cause its not tunned but i duno now grrr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway?   Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.
    • As in they quoted one price, you mentioned the exhaust, and they promptly added $200 on top? Interesting.
    • Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.
    • I'd try removing it, connecting hoses and see if that helps. Depending on specs, it could actually be restricting the flow(it also might be helping).
    • Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.
×
×
  • Create New...