Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make me the third. Mine whines when coming off throttle or rolling in neutral. Fairly annoying, thought of just buying a second hand diff and housing and swapping it over. But then how do I know the next one wont do it too. From what I've been told they can whine if the gears dont mesh together properly. So if the gears are worn there is play in the diff, hence it whines when not accelerating. I've been thinking of trying a different oil. might help a little. Any thoughts????

i got the same problem. As the speed increases the whine gets louder. I got myself another diff for $300. Havnt put it in yet, but wen i get the time ill put it in, and hopefully all works out, and i refilled the new diff with penrite diff oil. I heard that aint bad either.

Rip the diff out, get the bearings replaced and the crown wheel/pinion checked and the clearance adjusted.

Done.

how much would that cost to get a mechanic to do it?

also how much do u think it would cost if i rip the diff and send it to the mechanic?

cheers

Most likley they will charge per hour.. Around 75 bucks an hour by most mechanics..

Maybe worthwhile if you bring your car into the shop and let them check it out and rip it apart..

Let them find the problem first, and then go from there.. Could be just a simple fix..

For a complete reco for the diff in my R31 skyline (bearings, seals, crownwheel and pinion) and removal and fitting was it was $950. I am kicking myself for not doing it.

It is actually quite a easy job to reco a diff if you have a basic knowledge of tools. The only special tool you need is a dial indicator to do the back lash and a oxy torch to heat the crownwheel up to put it on the diff centre. You will also need a torque wrench to test the limited slip diff. You will also need to mesh the diff properly, that info can be found in those gregories car manuals or on the internet.

yeah. ive got the same issue.

i thought id try to launch my gtr with a nismo tripple.

it didnt like it much. now it whines lol. not bad. but coz ive got a solid mounted subframe it makes the noise all that much more louder

so yeah. r200 diff reco.. how much??

taking the diff out isn't that hard. unbolt the drive shafts, unbolt the shaft coming from the gear box. and then there are two bolts at the front to remove, and i think 2 or 4 on the back. For $950 you could buy a 2-way, or 1.5-way.

for a gearbox shop to just have a look/listen they probably wouldn't charge you. but i spose different places may charge. anyone recommend a gearbox/diff shop? in brisbane

my 31 diff whined, as they do, especially after a number of skidpan days.

used synth fluid and some diff addative (lucas i think) from supercheap, and it was sweet.

addative is cheaper than a new diff. I had a 2nd hand reconditioned LSD centre put into my 31 for $500.

just keep a spare diff on hand.....

sorry for the stupid question

but would it still be alrite to use it at track days and stuff... coz its something i dont want to upgrade/repair yet until i decide what i want to do with it? rebuild it or go mechanical 1.5/2 way

  • 3 weeks later...
yeah. ive got the same issue.

i thought id try to launch my gtr with a nismo tripple.

it didnt like it much. now it whines lol. not bad. but coz ive got a solid mounted subframe it makes the noise all that much more louder

so yeah. r200 diff reco.. how much??

Dave

have u got a quote for it yet? if you did where abouts did u go?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...