Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just jap radiators are crap.......no offence to just jap, but there seriously sh1t, my mates car overheated rediculous, so he slapped a standard s14 radiator in and bam, no more problems.......

at the end of the day u get what u pay for, spend a little money to get a long way, after all..........ur engine will thank you for it

p.s - wat do u mean by earthing it good RB26TTVL???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2807455
Share on other sites

Stray current....

If the car has poorly wired accessories that will happen.

In our lines that already run an alloy rad if you don't have a problem then no need to worry. The VL's are released with a copper core so any problems won't show until u fit an alloy rad.

Thats the way I understand it. :) Could be wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2814826
Share on other sites

Apparently if you don't earth it a corrosive charge can build up. Local mechanic who is a bit of a closet maniac suggested it.

This happened to one of my friends who has an RB25 in a 180sx...there was holes in the radiator everywhere after only a month :) expensive lesson learned!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2814850
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
This happened to one of my friends who has an RB25 in a 180sx...there was holes in the radiator everywhere after only a month :P expensive lesson learned!

Got the Radiator. It looks excellent. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Customer service from the guys up in Qld PWR branch is second to none.

Sorry tlo say it but I disagree with earthing alloy radiators. If all your mounts and hose'a are good the radiator should be isolated from the car, so putting a earth on it will then allow stray current to be intrduced into the rad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2882802
Share on other sites

Yeah man, real nice, i've had one for about twelve months now in a VL with an RB26, and it's been spot on. They're basically the same as what the V8 supercars use. Just make sure you earth it good, and use nice coolant!

Tell me what this guy was smoking when this crap came out of his mouth. Almost all factory radiators are rubber mounted so why aren't all factory cars pissing coolant after a couple of years?

Sorry tlo say it but I disagree with earthing alloy radiators. If all your mounts and hose'a are good the radiator should be isolated from the car, so putting a earth on it will then allow stray current to be intrduced into the rad.

I agree with what GTROB says, though you still need a source for the current & then your problem is dodgy wiring not your radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2895090
Share on other sites

what thickness did you buy, and did you have to lose the viscous fan or did you choose to lose it?

I bought my GTS-t PWR rad from morpowa and they matched my delivered price from QLD. Totally happy with it, had it on the track and was perfect. Put the stocky back in after it got defected and noticed temps rose just sitting in traffic.

BTW, are these alloy rads regency friendly? I think we swapped mine over just to be safe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2896334
Share on other sites

what thickness did you buy, and did you have to lose the viscous fan or did you choose to lose it?

I bought my GTS-t PWR rad from morpowa and they matched my delivered price from QLD. Totally happy with it, had it on the track and was perfect. Put the stocky back in after it got defected and noticed temps rose just sitting in traffic.

BTW, are these alloy rads regency friendly? I think we swapped mine over just to be safe.

I think it's 53mm thick?? What ever their thickest is. Also its cross flow not upright. I choose to lose the fan and put a thermo on it. Got the thoermo turning on at 85 deg C and off at 80 deg C, and you very rarely here the thermo come on, the rad works that well. After a long run and the car is idling down on the turbo timer the fan may come on for 20 sec at the most.

Can't see how alloy rad could be some thing cops or regency would dislike. But you never know with either of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150626-pwr-radiators/#findComment-2896554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...