Jump to content
SAU Community

Who Tuned Your Power Fc?

NYTSKY

By NYTSKY,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

blk180 Veteran

blk180

Posted
Posted

I have used a lot of shops(having had never ending problems) for my car.

I used Hitman for tunning my frist rebuild was a good tune, made good power but maybe need to be a little less aggesive. A bad batch of (100% my fualt or fuel station) and i melted 3 forged pistons. The shop i got the rebuld and work done at 16k worth of work pretty much said not our fualt come back when you want to rebuild again. That was just by doing a comp test they wouldnt even pull the motor down. Well i will not mention the name of that shop as they are not worth it (they have nothing to do with Hitman).

I then went to DART Automotive they rebuilt my motor in 6 weeks (frist took 6months) this by far the best alround shop i have been to they treat me well always keen to help me out. They have also tuned my car and have done a Great Job (not that HITMAN couldnt have done it but i like the all in the one shop thing).

Anyway DART Automotive is my pick for power FC tuning.

Cheers Brad

  • Replies 135
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My first dyno run was recordedat 194.2@wheels@13psi.

For some reason i cant post the sheet??

But he told me its more like 190 as he had to knock a few degrees out of the timing as it was pinging.

Took it for a spirited drive last night,and could feel power and torque everywhere,but unfortunatley it is still pinging sometimes.Recorded knock levels of 42,54 and 99!!!! So im gunna change the plugs once again to see if if helps. Now i can really start to feel the limitations of the standard turbo.Runs out of puff at 6500rpm. torque drops off quite a bit in the top half of the rev range as you can see by my dyno sheet lol???

Now is the hard part turbo choice.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I've had a Hitman tune and found it to be great for all the reasons alredy stated in this thread ($500)

I wish everyone would post prices but anyway....

Can someone tell me what makes CRD so much better than everyone else? and what is their price?

I reckon for doind a skyline with standard turbo and a few mods to hit around 200rwkws, i think, for a tuner, it would be a piece of piss and woudln't need all day...but thats just my opinion :P

  • 3 weeks later...
hanyou Grand Master

hanyou

Posted
Posted

interesting read. ill be getting a tune somwhere in the next month. thought id give my personal opinion on shops:

im thinking of going to bel garage.. heaps good guys down there & always got time to have a chat. had some work done there in my old car.

ive also had the worst experience at UAS as well. went there for them to specifically fix a fuel pump install which i was booked in for at 9am. at which i got attended to at 2pm. and then they also decided to go and change my spark plugs to iridiums, give me a compression test and charge me $27 for a 'test drive' without telling me. Johns a nice guy and i have nothing against him, but wtf are they smoking when they make the bill & do random work. the bill was about $600 at the end of it ( i had the apprentice doing the work as well to make it worse).

I've also been down and seen Mark @ Hills Motorsport (bought some parts off him). great guy & good service. i also saw mixed opinions about their shop on this forum at the time so never knew what their mechanical work was like.

ive talked to unigroup over the phone and email. Yavuz is pretty keen to help.

hitman tuned my r33, treats you like a friend when your at his shop and does great work on tunning :santa:

oh and just incase.. im not attacking forum members in this thread lol

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
interesting read. ill be getting a tune somwhere in the next month. thought id give my personal opinion on shops:

im thinking of going to bel garage.. heaps good guys down there & always got time to have a chat. had some work done there in my old car.

ive also had the worst experience at UAS as well. went there for them to specifically fix a fuel pump install which i was booked in for at 9am. at which i got attended to at 2pm. and then they also decided to go and change my spark plugs to iridiums, give me a compression test and charge me $27 for a 'test drive' without telling me. Johns a nice guy and i have nothing against him, but wtf are they smoking when they make the bill & do random work. the bill was about $600 at the end of it ( i had the apprentice doing the work as well to make it worse).

I've also been down and seen Mark @ Hills Motorsport (bought some parts off him). great guy & good service. i also saw mixed opinions about their shop on this forum at the time so never knew what their mechanical work was like.

ive talked to unigroup over the phone and email. Yavuz is pretty keen to help.

hitman tuned my r33, treats you like a friend when your at his shop and does great work on tunning :santa:

oh and just incase.. im not attacking forum members in this thread lol

Normally I would not comment, but I have to backup UAS on this one.

I happened to be there when you bought your old GTS-T in on a tow truck and I personally saw the job you did trying to fit the fuel pump yourself. Given the state of your fuel pump and the mountain of solder you had poured all over it, im entirely not surprised that they wanted to go over the car to make sure it hadn't leaned out and caused engine damage.

hanyou Grand Master

hanyou

Posted
Posted

blitz: thats fair enough, im happy they fixed the problem,

sorry i probably wasnt clear at what i was trying to say late last night lol.. i was angry at the fact that they didnt inform me of what they were doing. i mean i was sitting outside waiting the least they couldve done is come over and told me what was happening, instead of jus slapping the bill at the end with no explanation. they literally did not say 1 word to me the whole time the work was being done. If i knew that bill was coming then sure no wories, we all know cars arnt the cheapest hobby.

i personally would not go back based on that experience of customer service. but like all workshops there is mixed opinions, some get the good and some get the bad. it is unfortunate that i had that experience at UAS cause i've heard lots of great things about them (i still do upto now).

frozenwaffles Mentor

frozenwaffles

Posted
Posted

i have just been to UAS to get my car serviced and the tune tweaked. personally i was very happy with what they did...a bit on the expensive side...but not to expensive. i guess you get what you pay for...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thomasLait
      New Stegea Owner

      By thomasLait · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...